Hampstead Heath
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hampstead Heath (locally known as "the Heath") is London's largest ancient parkland, covering 790 acres (320 ha).[1] This grassy public space sits astride a sandy ridge, one of the highest points in London, running from Hampstead to Highgate, which rests on a band of London clay[2] The Heath is rambling and hilly, embracing ponds, recent and ancient woodlands, a lido, playgrounds, a training track and adjoins the stately home and grounds of Kenwood House. South of the Heath is Parliament Hill, a focal point with the view protected by law.
The Heath has long been a popular place for Londoners to walk and take the air. Running along its eastern perimeter lies a chain of ponds - including three open-air public swimming pools - which were originally reservoirs for drinking water from the River Fleet. Kenwood is the location of a Site of Special Scientific Interest, the smallest such site in London; lakeside concerts are held in summer. The Heath is an extra-territorial possession of the City of London Corporation and lies within the London Borough of Camden with the detached Hampstead Heath Extension in the London Borough of Barnet.
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[edit] History
The Heath enters the history books in 986 when Ethelred the Unready granted one of his servants five hides of land at "Hemstede". This same land is later recorded in the Domesday Book as held by the monastery of St. Peter’s at Westminster Abbey in 1086 and by then is known as the "Manor of Hampstead".[3] Westminster held the land until 1133 when control of part of the manor was released to one Richard de Balta; then, during Henry II's reign the whole of the manor was given over to the private hands of an Alexander de Barentyn, the king's butler. Manorial rights to the land remained in private hands until the 1940s when they lapsed under Sir Spencer Pocklington Maryon Wilson,[4] though the estate itself was passed on to Shane Gough, 5th Viscount Gough.[3]
Over time, plots of land in the manor were sold off for building, particularly in the early 19th century, though the Heath remained mainly common land. The main part of the Heath was acquired for the people by the Metropolitan Board of Works,[5] with Parliament Hill added in 1888 after it was purchased for the public for £300,000, Golders Hill in 1898 and Kenwood House with its grounds in 1928.[6]
From 1808 to 1814 Hampstead Heath hosted a station in the shutter telegraph chain which connected the Admiralty in London to its naval ships in the port of Great Yarmouth.
The Heath has been managed by the City of London Corporation since 1989,[7] having been previously managed by the GLC and then Camden Council. The City of London are proposing to build a new road on the Heath to service their 'Masterplan' developments. The proposal has met with protests from local residents and celebrities. The dispute continues. [8]
[edit] Geography
The Heath sits astride a sandy ridge (around 440 feet or 134 metres high) resting on a band of London Clay running from east to west. As the sand was easily penetrated by rainwater which was then held by the clay, a landscape of swampy hollows, springs and man-made excavations was created.[2]
Most of the Heath (approx 85%) lies in the borough of Camden, with the rest, the Extension, lying in Barnet.
Public transport near the Heath includes London Overground stations Hampstead Heath and Gospel Oak to the south, and London Underground stations at Hampstead and Belsize Park to the west, Golders Green to the north, and Highgate and Archway to the east. Buses serve many of the roads around the Heath.
The wildlife includes Common Kingfishers, Jackdaws and ring-necked parakeets. Pipistrelles and Daubenton's Bats may be seen over the ponds.
[edit] Areas of the Heath
The Heath covers 790 acres (320 ha) with a number of distinct areas. "Boudicca's Mound", near the present men's bathing pond, is a tumulus where, according to local legend, Queen Boudicca (Boadicea) was buried after she and 10,000 other Iceni soldiers were defeated at Battle Bridge.[9] However, earlier drawings and paintings of the area show no mound other than a 17th Century windmill.
In the south-east of the Heath, and on the southern slopes of Parliament Hill, is the Gospel Oak Lido open air swimming pool, with a running track and fitness area to its north.
[edit] Highgate and Hampstead Ponds
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There are over 25 ponds on Hampstead Heath, mostly collected into two distinct areas. On the east (Highgate) side is a series of eight former reservoirs (known as Highgate Ponds) originally dug in the 17th and 18th centuries.[10] These include two single-sex (the men's and ladies' bathing ponds) swimming pools, a model boating pond, a wildlife reserve pond and a fishing lake.
On the south side of the Heath, towards South End Green, are three further ponds (known as Hampstead Ponds), one of which is the 'mixed pond', where members of both sexes may swim. These ponds are the result of the damming in 1777 of Hampstead brook, one of the sources for the Fleet River, by the Hampstead Water Company who had been formed in 1692 to meet London's growing water demand.[2]
In 2004, the City of London Corporation, which operates the Heath, tried to close the ponds on the grounds that they were an unsustainable drain on their expenses and posed a health risk to swimmers. The swimmers challenged this and won a victory in the High Court. To defray costs, the Corporation introduced a charge for swimmers of £2 per session, £1 for concessions. There was some opposition to this and some of the ticket machines were vandalized.[11]
[edit] Caen Wood Towers
To the north east of the Heath lies a deralict area within the Conservation area that house the grounds and mansion of the former Caen Wood Towers (renamed Athlone House in 1972). This historic building, currently in disrepair was built in 1872 for Edward Brooke, aniline dye manufacturer (architect, Edward Salomons). In 1942 the building was taken up for war service by the Royal Air Force and was used to house the RAF Intelligence School, although the 'official' line was that it was a convalescence hospital. The Operational Record (Form 540) of RAF Station Highgate (currently in the National Archives, Kew), was declassified in the late 1990s and shows the true role of this building in wartime service. The building received 2 near misses from German V-1 Flying bombs in late 1944, causing damage and injuries to staff. The RAF Intelligence School remained in Caen Wood Towers until 1948, when it was handed over to the Ministry of Health. The house was then used as a hospital and finally a post-operative recovery lodge, before falling into disrepair in the 1980s. The NHS sold off this part of their estate in 2004 to a private businessman who his currently redeveloping much of the site, however the House and its gardens fall under the conservation area of Hampstead Heath.
[edit] Parliament Hill Fields
Parliament Hill Fields lies in the south and east of the Heath; it officially became part of the Heath in 1888. It contains various sporting facilities including an athletics track and tennis courts.[12] Parliament Hill itself is considered to be the focal point of the Heath,[13] with the highest part of it known as "Kite Hill" due to its popularity with kite flyers.[14] though it is more often simply referred to as 'the top of Parliament Hill'. The hill is around 321 feet (98 m) high and is notable for the excellent views it provides of the London skyline. It is possible to see the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf and the City of London, along with St Paul's Cathedral and other landmarks, all together in one view, some of which are protected views. The main staff yards for the management of the Heath are located at Parliament Hill Fields.[7]
[edit] Kenwood
The area to the north of the Heath is the Kenwood estate and House - a total area of 0.5 km² (50 ha; 120 acres) which is maintained by English Heritage. This was joined to the Heath when it was donated to the nation by Lord Iveagh on his death in 1927, and opened to the public in 1928. One third of the estate is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, particularly the ancient woodlands, designated by English Nature. These are home to many birds and insects and the largest Pipistrelle bat roost in London.
The original house dates from the early 17th century. The orangery was added in about 1700.
The popular summer lakeside concerts, which started in 1951, ceased in February 2007 after protests from local residents.[15] However, the return of the concerts was announced in March 2008 after English Heritage agreed a number of changes with Camden Council, notably with regard to noise levels.[16]
[edit] The Vale of Health
The Vale of Health is a hamlet (named "Hatchett's Bottom" until 1801): accessed via a small lane off East Heath Road, it is surrounded entirely by the Heath.
[edit] Extension
The Extension is an open space which lies to the north-west of the main heath. It does not share the history of common and heathland of the rest of the Heath. Instead it was created out of farmland, largely due to the efforts of Henrietta Barnett who went on to found Hampstead Garden Suburb. Its farmland origins can still be seen in the form of old field boundaries, hedgerows and trees.
[edit] Golders Hill Park
Coordinates: 51°34′7″N 0°11′28″W / 51.56861°N 0.19111°W Golders Hill Park is a formal park adjoining the West Heath and is on a site formerly occupied by a large house which was bombed during World War II. It consists mainly of an expanse of grass, but it also has a formal flower garden with a duck pond and a separate water garden, which leads to a separate area for deer, near a recently-renovated small zoo. The zoo has alpacas, maras, red-legged seriemas and white-naped cranes. There are also tennis courts and a putting green.[17]
Unlike the rest of the Heath, Golders Hill Park is closed at night.
[edit] Hampstead Heath Constabulary
The "Hampstead Heath Constabulary" is a group of twelve constables with six trained police dogs all licensed to ACPO standard. They have been responsible for patrolling the park 24 hours a day since 1992.[18]
They are attested as constables under Article 18 of the Ministry of Housing and Local Government Provisional Order Confirmation (Greater London Parks and Open Spaces) Act 1967. This authorises them to enforce the Hampstead Heath bylaws. They enjoy limited police powers when in their jurisdiction and have a good working partnership with the local Metropolitan Police. Any significant incidents or crimes on the Heath are handed over to the Metropolitan Police, the territorial police force for Greater London.
[edit] Activities
The Heath is home to a range of activities, including 16 different sports.[7] It is used by walkers, runners, swimmers and kite-flyers, and is regarded as the home of cross-country running in Britain.[7] There is an annual 5km run through the Heath organised by Umbrella,[19] and until February 2007 Kenwood held a series of popular lakeside concerts.
The West Heath is regarded as one of the most notable and safest night-time cruising grounds in London.[20] George Michael has revealed that he cruises on the Heath;[21] an activity he then parodied on the Extras Christmas Special.[22]
Swimming takes place all year round in two of the three natural swimming ponds: the men's pond which opened in the 1890s, and the ladies' pond which opened in 1925. The mixed pond is only open from May to September, though it is the oldest, having been in use since the 1860s.[23]
Facilities include an athletics track, a pétanque pitch, a volleyball court and eight separate children's play areas including an adventure playground.[7]
[edit] Culture
Views of the Heath and its cloudscapes were a favourite subject of John Constable, who lived in nearby Well Walk.
John Keats lived in West Heath Road, and his poem Ode to a Nightingale was inspired by a bird he heard while at the Spaniards Inn on the northern border of the Heath.
CS Lewis was inspired to write the famous novel, "The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe", while walking on the heath on a snowy day[24]
The feature film, Scenes of a Sexual Nature (2006), directed by Ed Blum, was shot entirely on Hampstead Heath. Notting Hill (1999) featured scenes shot at the Heath, located primarily around Kenwood House.
Hampstead Heath was featured on the television programme Seven Natural Wonders as one of the wonders of the London area, with a focus on Parliament Hill to the south. The episode was presented by Bill Oddie, who lives in nearby Gospel Oak, and watches birds there regularly.
In 2005, Giancarlo Neri's sculpture The Writer, a 9-metre tall table and chair, was exhibited on Hampstead Heath.
Whilst living in London, Karl Marx and his family would take regular Sunday picnics on the Heath.
In the comedy show, Bo' Selecta, The Bear lived in a tree house on Hampstead Heath and would continually complain of being kept awake at night by 'the bummers'.
John Atkinson Grimshaw, Victorian era painter, painted an elaborate night-time scene of Hampstead Hill in oils. Hampstead Heath also provided the backdrop for the opening scene in Victorian writer Wilkie Collins' novel The Woman in White.
A post-apocalyptic Hampstead Heath is the site of the village of Ham in Will Self's The Book of Dave.
Hampstead Heath is the primary setting for the 1983 short novel "The Purple Runner" by Paul Christman (Highgate Lane Press, Boulder, CO). The appearance of a mysterious disfigured runner of incredible talent intrigues the habitués of the heath. This book is considered one of the greatest running novels of all time, having become a cult classic (and very expensive to purchase).
[edit] Gallery
 Kenwood House |
 The Vale of Health |
 The Writer, temporary structure in 2006 |
 Arsenal FC's Emirates Stadium viewed from Parliament Hill |
 View towards St Jude's church in Hampstead Garden Suburb from the Heath extension |
[edit] Bibliography
- Hampstead Heath: Its Geology and Natural History. Prepared under the Auspices of the Hampstead Scientific Society with 3 maps (pull-out) and 11 plates. [25]
[edit] References
- London Pools Campaign advocacy website.
- City of London Corporation Swimming facilities on Hampstead Heath
- The London Encyclopaedia, Ben Weinreb and Christopher Hibbert, Macmillan.
- ^ Hampstead Heath (City of London) accessed 13 May 2009
- ^ a b c Hampstead - Hampstead Heath | British History Online
- ^ a b Hampstead - Manor and Other Estates | British History Online
- ^ thePeerage.com - Person Page 7102
- ^ Thompson, Hampstead, 130, 165, 195, 317-18, 329- 30; G.L.R.O., E/MW/H, old no. 27/15 (sales parts. 1875).
- ^ The London Encyclopaedia, Ben Weinreb & Christopher Hibbert, 1983, ISBN 0-333-57688-8
- ^ a b c d e Hampstead Heath
- ^ http://www.saynototheroad.blogspot.com/
- ^ [1] London, Rob Humphreys, Rough Guides Ltd, 2004, ISBN 978-1843533160
- ^ Hampstead Heath
- ^ London Pools Campaign: Save the Ponds Campaign
- ^ Camden Council: Contact Parliament Hill Fields
- ^ BBC - Seven Wonders - Parliament Hill
- ^ Hampstead Heath - Sightseeing, Areas & Squares
- ^ End of an Era for Kenwood House Concerts
- ^ IMG and English Heritage announce stunning line up for Kenwood House Picnic Concerts
- ^ Camden Council: Contact Golders Hill Park
- ^ untitled
- ^ Umbrella - Working For Positive Mental Health
- ^ Pink UK's Gay Cruising Areas - Hampstead Heath
- ^ Personal Column: 'I go with gay strangers. We have our own code' - People, News - Independent.co.uk
- ^ Last night on television: Extras Christmas Special (BBC1) - Battleship Antarctica (Channel 4 - Telegraph
- ^ Greater London Authority - Press Release
- ^ C.S. Lewis: A Complete Guide to His Life and Works / by Walter Hooper. By Walter Hooper Published by HarperSanFrancisco, 2005 ISBN 006063880X, 9780060638801
- ^ First published by T. Fisher Unwin (London) in 1913 with no ISBN
[edit] External links
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Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Hampstead Heath |
- The official Hampstead Heath pages on the City of London website
- Detailed guide to the ponds with photographs, by Andrew Selkirk, editor of Hampstead-based Current Archaeology magazine.
- History of Hampstead Heath
- The Heath & Hampstead Society
- BBC website
- Map (PDF)
