Jersey (fabric)

Not to be confused with jersey (clothing).

Jersey

Interlock jersey fabric
Type	Fabric
Material	Wool, cotton or synthetic fibers
Production method	Knitting
Production process	Mechanized
Place of origin	Jersey

Single jersey front side under microscope

Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is now made of wool, cotton and synthetic fibers.

Origins

Jersey fabric originated in the Channel Islands, particularly on the island of Jersey, where it was traditionally used for underwear and sweaters for fishermen. This versatile fabric has historical roots dating back to the Middle Ages, when Jersey was a significant exporter of knitted goods. Today, jersey fabric is prized for its lightweight and stretchy qualities and is often made from materials like rayon or viscose, which provide a soft texture and excellent drape. Many modern versions of jersey fabric incorporate Lycra, spandex, or elastane to enhance stretchability.

Jersey fabric was originally woven from wool, but it has since evolved to include cotton and synthetic blends, with common ratios being 50/50 or 60/40. These blends affect the fabric's durability and comfort, making it widely used in clothing items such as T-shirts and underwear. Although it is an ideal base layer material, jersey fabric lacks the insulation and durability of some other textiles. The name "Jersey" likely has roots in English and Old Norse, meaning "island," which reflects its geographic and historical origins.

Gathering

A common material for jersey fabric, varies by sheep breed. Finer wool, such as merino, is preferred for premium apparel, while coarser wool is used for carpets and heavy clothing.

The wool processing steps include scouring, which cleans the wool by removing dirt, grease, and sweat; carding, which untangles and smooths the wool into consistent strands; gilling, which aligns the fibers and removes impurities; and combing, which eliminates shorter fibers and vegetable matter, leaving only the long fibers for spinning. Drafting further thins the wool strands, preparing them for fine yarn production. Finally, spinning and twisting convert these strands into single yarns, often twisted together to create stronger, multi-ply yarns. Depending on the type of wool and the processing methods used, the resulting yarns can be tailored for various applications, including carpets, upholstery, and high-quality clothing.

Both woolen and worsted yarns can be woven into fabrics, with worsted yarn yielding finer and smoother products. Woolen yarns, on the other hand, are tufted into carpets by stitching loops into a backing fabric, which can either be cut or left intact, then sealed for added strength.

Over the years, jersey fabric has evolved from a simple woolen material used for practical clothing to a versatile fabric that holds a prominent place in both everyday and luxury fashion. The addition of synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester in the 20th century further enhanced jersey's stretch, moisture control, and durability. Today, modern jersey fabrics also include eco-friendly options made from organic and recycled materials.

Production

Jersey is a knitting method that produces a unique and versatile material. This knitting technique involves creating a lightweight and stretchy fabric by interlocking yarns in a series of loops. The result is jersey fabric, which is particularly well-suited for a variety of comfortable garments such as T-shirts, dresses, and athletic wear.

Textile fibers can be broadly categorized into two main types: natural and synthetic. Natural fibers include plant-based materials, such as cotton and hemp, which are cherished for their comfort, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties. Animal-based fibers like wool and silk are also included in this category. Synthetic fibers are engineered and can be classified into two subcategories: regenerated fibers and purely synthetic fibers. Regenerated fibers, such as rayon and modal, are derived from natural materials like wood pulp but undergo chemical processing to create a new fiber. These fibers are celebrated for their ability to mimic the qualities of natural fibers while offering additional benefits, such as increased durability and a variety of textures. Purely synthetic fibers, such as polyester and nylon, are created from petrochemicals and are designed for specific properties like high durability, resistance to wrinkles, and moisture-wicking capabilities. These fibers are often utilized in activewear and other functional clothing due to their performance characteristics.

The softness and breathability of natural fibers make them ideal for casual wear, while the durability and moisture resistance of synthetic fibers make them more suitable for athletic and outdoor clothing. Additionally, the interplay between different fibers in blends can enhance specific qualities, leading to fabrics that combine the best of both types. The versatility of jersey fabric, combined with the diverse options in fiber selection, allows for a wide range of applications in the textile industry.

Knitting Techniques

Jersey fabric is a versatile material created through a specific knitting technique, commonly used for various garments. The fabric can be a stretchy single-knit jersey, usually lightweight, with one flat side and one piled side, making it ideal for comfortable clothing like T-shirts. When made as a double-knit (or interlock jersey), jersey fabric has less stretch and is heavier, with two layers of single jerseys knit together to create a fabric with flat sides on the exterior and piles in the center. This type of knit is often used for polo shirts, especially those made from pima cotton, and is considered an elegant alternative to piqué.

Knitting techniques vary, with two primary styles being the English method and the Continental method. The English method, also known as "throwing," involves holding the yarn in the right hand, while the Continental method, where the yarn is held in the left hand, can facilitate faster knitting. In the UK, the English method is common, whereas the Continental approach is favored in Germany and Scandinavia, known for intricate patterns like Fair Isle and Norwegian knitting techniques. In North America, both methods are widely used.

Jersey fabrics can be classified as follows:

• Single jersey - Lightweight, stretchy fabric with one flat side and one piled side, often used for T-shirts.
• Double jersey - Heavier, less stretchy fabric with two flat sides.
• Interlock jersey - Double-knit fabric that is thicker and can serve as a formal alternative for polo shirts.
• Jacquard jersey - Jersey fabric featuring complex patterns created during the knitting process.
• Clocqué jersey - Textured, with a blistered or quilted appearance.
• Stretch jersey - Jersey blended with elastane or spandex for enhanced stretch, commonly used in activewear and form-fitting garments.

History

The material was first produced in Jersey, Channel Islands, which had been an important exporter of knitted goods since medieval times.

In 1916, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel upset the fashion industry by using jersey at a time when it was strictly associated with underwear. "This designer made jersey what it is today—we hope she's satisfied," said Vogue in 1999. "It's almost as much part of our lives as blue serge is."

Structure

Jersey is a weft knit fabric that is knitted on a single set of needles with all loops meshing in the same direction. By and large, it is knitted in plain stitch. It is also called plain. On the other hand, the double jersey is knit using two sets of needles, does not curl at the edges (when cut) and has a more stable structure.

See also

• Balbriggan (cloth)
• Kersey (cloth)