Bouldering at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering
at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Moscow, Russia
Chongqing, China
Wujiang, China
Munich, Germany

Vail, United States
Dates5 April – 8 June 2019
Champions
MenJapan Tomoa Narasaki
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret

The 2019 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 21st season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 5 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on June 8 with the World Cup in Vail. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, winning all six competitions of the season in the process, an achievement which had never been accomplished before. The men's seasonal title went to Tomoa Narasaki while Japan defended its title in the national teams competition.

Olympic qualification[edit]

For the Tokyo 2020 Olympics athletes can qualify through either the IFSC Combined World Championships, the Olympic Qualifying Event or the Continental Championships. The Olympic Qualifying Event is an invitation only event open to the 20 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit who haven't already qualified.[1]

Overall ranking[edit]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men[edit]

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[2]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Moscow Chongqing Wujiang Munich Vail
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 340 2. 80 ( — ) 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 2. 80
2 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 335 1. 100 2. 80 ( — ) 14. 24 2. 80 5. 51
3 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 264 8. 40 3. 65 (29. 1) 9. 37 15. 22 1. 100
4 South Korea Jongwon Chon 228 5. 51 10. 34 (15. 22) 11. 31 6. 47 3. 65
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 227 4. 55 9. 37 6. 47 5. 51 ( — ) 9. 37
6 Germany Jan Hojer 223 (21. 9 *) 12. 28 12. 28 6. 47 3. 65 4. 55
7 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 214 7. 43 11. 31 5. 51 10. 34 4. 55 ( — )
8 Slovenia Anže Peharc [cs] 205 15. 22 4. 55 3. 65 20. 12 5. 51 ( — )
9 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 191 11. 31 1. 100 (34. 0) 16. 20 11. 31 21. 9
10 Austria Jakob Schubert 184 47. 0 27. 3 18. 16 3. 65 1. 100 ( — )
11 Japan Rei Sugimoto 174 3. 65 16. 20 7. 43 7. 43 ( — ) 27. 3
12 Japan Kai Harada 148 21. 9 ( — ) 11. 31 2. 80 ( — ) 12. 28
13 France Manuel Cornu 143 ( — ) 7. 43 1. 100 ( — ) ( — ) ( — )
14 Japan Taisei Ishimatsu 136 9. 37 17. 18 13. 26 ( 23. 7 ) 20. 12 7. 43
15 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 121 20. 12 23. 7 8. 40 15. 22 8. 40 ( — )
16 Japan Tomoaki Takata 117 6. 47 19. 14 21. 9 * ( — ) 18. 16 11. 31
17 China YuFei Pan 112 13. 26 21. 9 21. 9 * 8. 40 12. 28 ( — )
18 Japan Keita Dohi 109 10. 34 ( — ) ( — ) 4. 55 ( — ) 16. 20
18 Germany Alexander Megos 109 16. 20 15. 22 23. 7 ( — ) 10. 34 13. 26
20 United States Nathaniel Coleman 104 17. 18 ( — ) 17. 18 12. 28 ( — ) 8. 40

Women[edit]

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[3]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Moscow Chongqing Wujiang Munich Vail
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 500 1. 100 1. 100 1. 100 1. 100 1. 100 (1. 100)
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 320 2. 80 ( — ) 2. 80 2. 80 ( — ) 2. 80
3 France Fanny Gibert [fr] 308 4. 55 3. 65 7. 43 (13. 25) * 2. 80 3. 65
4 Japan Futaba Ito 206 9. 37 6. 47 5. 51 7. 43 ( — ) 12. 28
5 Austria Jessica Pilz 203 21. 9 * 5. 51 3. 65 5. 51 12. 27 * ( — )
6 Switzerland Petra Klingler 180 5. 51 8. 40 4. 55 10. 34 ( — ) ( — )
7 Slovenia Lučka Rakovec 163 16. 20 4. 55 12. 28 15. 22 8. 38 * ( — )
8 Slovenia Katja Kadic 161 12. 28 19. 14 6. 47 13. 25 * 6. 47 ( — )
9 France Julia Chanourdie 157 17. 17 * ( 31. 0 ) 14. 24 6. 47 4. 55 19. 14
10 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 145 3. 65 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) ( — )
10 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 145 13. 26 10. 32 * 25. 5 * 11. 31 5. 51 ( — )
12 Canada Alannah Yip 139 15. 22 9. 37 8. 40 17. 18 ( — ) 15. 22
13 United States Alex Johnson 125 7. 43 25. 5 17. 17 * (29. 1) 10. 34 13. 26
14 Germany Afra Hönig 111 10. 34 14. 23 ( — ) 25. 5 17. 15 * 10. 34
15 Japan Miho Nonaka 110 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) 4. 55 ( — ) 4. 55
16 Japan Mao Nakamura 102 ( — ) 23. 7 16. 20 12. 28 ( — ) 6. 47
17 South Korea Sol Sa 100 17. 17 * 7. 43 ( — ) 8. 40 ( — ) ( — )
18 United States Kyra Condie 93 8. 40 16. 20 ( — ) ( — ) 21. 9 14. 24
19 China YueTong Zhang 80 27. 3 13. 26 11. 31 16. 20 ( — ) ( — )
20 Japan Ai Mori 77 27. 3 ( — ) 21. 9 3. 65 ( — ) ( — )

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams[edit]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[4]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Meiringen Moscow Chongqing Wujiang Munich Vail
1 Japan Japan 1693 322 210 321 435 (86) 405
2 Slovenia Slovenia 1359 213 331 280 201 334 (109)
3 France France 766 (75) 151 205 104 149 157
4 Austria Austria 591 75 99 84 137 196 (15)
5 Germany Germany 534 63 80 74 (61) 131 186
6 United States United States of America 468 102 49 89 (38) 48 180
7 Russia Russian Federation 396 43 136 55 79 83 (—)
8 South Korea Republic of Korea 353 68 77 (34) 78 47 83
9 Czech Republic Czech Republic 336 100 81 (0) 24 80 51
10 United Kingdom Great Britain 330 101 119 34 9 67 (6)

Meiringen, Switzerland (5–6 April)[edit]

Women[edit]

100 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Last year's winner and overall Bouldering World Cup winner Miho Nonaka had to sit out due to injury. Janja Garnbret (3T4z 6 6) won in front of Akiyo Noguchi (3T4z 9 12) as the only two athletes to top the final boulder. The 2016 and 2017 winner Shauna Coxsey came in third, after recovering from last years injuries.[5][6][7]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3T4z 6 6
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 9 12
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 2T3z 3 4
4 France Fanny Gibert 1T2z 4 2
5 Switzerland Petra Klingler 1T1z 1 1
6 Australia Oceania Mackenzie 1T1z 2 2

Men[edit]

115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Last year's winner and overall Bouldering World Cup winner Jernej Kruder did not advance past the semi-final. Adam Ondra (4T4z 10 9) attended his first Bouldering World Cup since 2015 and won the competition, being the only athlete to top all routes in the final (and the previous rounds). The final route featured a handjam move which shut down most competitors. Jongwon Chon managed to dyno past it to the zone, but only Ondra, with recent trad experience, was able to use the hold as designed. The Japanese team finished with seven athletes in the Top 10 including Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 3 4) and Rei Sugimoto (2T3z 6 7), who rounded out the podium.[5][8][9]

Rank Name Score
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 4T4z 10 9
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3T3z 7 6
3 Japan Rei Sugimoto 2T3z 6 7
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T3z 3 5
5 South Korea Jongwon Chon 1T3z 3 8
6 Japan Tomoaki Takata 1T1z 1 1

Moscow, Russia (13–14 April)[edit]

Women[edit]

92 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Most of the Japanese team including Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka chose to not attend the World Cup. The semi-final round consisted of a tough set of boulders that saw very few tops. In contrast the final round problems were criticised for being a bit too easy, with every athlete topping at least three of the four boulders.[10] Janja Garnbret (4T4z 4 4) won the competition, flashing each of the final boulders. Shauna Coxsey (4T4z 6 6) came in second by virtue of having had a better semi-final than Fanny Gibert (4T4z 6 6) who had an identical score in the final.[11][12]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4
2 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 4T4z 6 6
3 France Fanny Gibert 4T4z 6 6
4 Slovenia Lučka Rakovec 3T4z 3 5
5 Austria Jessica Pilz 3T4z 9 10
6 Japan Futaba Ito 3T3z 6 6

Men[edit]

110 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Meiringen winner Adam Ondra just barely made it through the qualifying but dominated the semi-final, topping all four boulders whereas no other athlete topped more than two. In the final Adam Ondra (3T4z 5 7), Jernej Kruder (4T4z 8 6) and Yoshiyuki Ogata (3T3z 6 5) topped the first three boulders. Kruder was the only athlete to make it to the top of the final boulder, though, thus winning the competition.[13][12]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 4T4z 8 6
2 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 3T4z 5 7
3 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T3z 6 5
4 Slovenia Anže Peharc 2T3z 6 6
5 Japan Rei Kawamata 1T3z 2 6
6 Russia Vadim Timonov 1T3z 2 8

Chongqing, China (27–28 April)[edit]

Women[edit]

85 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Shauna Coxsey, who had won medals at both previous World Cups this season, chose to not attend the World Cup. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 8 6) won her third straight World Cup. Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 12 9) won Silver and Jessica Pilz (3T4z 8 11) took the Bronze medal.[14]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 8 6
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 12 9
3 Austria Jessica Pilz 3T4z 8 11
4 Switzerland Petra Klingler 1T3z 2 8
5 Japan Futaba Ito 1T2z 1 4
6 Slovenia Katja Kadic 0T4z 0 10

Men[edit]

101 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Meiringen winner Adam Ondra did not to attend due to respiratory infection[15] and Moscow winner Jernej Kruder failed to advance past the qualifying round. In the final Manuel Cornu (3T4z 5 5) managed to win his first World Cup. Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 5 6) came in second and Anže Peharc (3T4z 10 10) finished in third place.[16]

Rank Name Score
1 France Manuel Cornu 3T4z 5 5
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3T4z 5 6
3 Slovenia Anže Peharc 3T4z 10 10
4 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 2T4z 3 10
5 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 4 11
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 2T4z 7 9

Wujiang, China (4–5 May)[edit]

Women[edit]

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Wujiang. 2018 overall Bouldering World Cup winner Miho Nonaka attended her first World Cup of the season, returning from a shoulder injury.[15] Nonaka (2T4z 4 7) finished in fourth place. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 5 4) won her fourth straight World Cup while Akiyo Noguchi (3T4z 4 5) won Silver and 15-year old Ai Mori (3T4z 11 9) took the Bronze medal in her first World Cup final appearance.[17]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 8 6
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 12 9
3 Japan Ai Mori 3T4z 11 9
4 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T4z 4 7
5 Austria Jessica Pilz 2T4z 6 7
6 France Julia Chanourdie 0T2z 0 2

Men[edit]

97 athletes attended the World Cup in Wujiang. None of the previous World Cup winners of the season managed to advance to the final round. Chonqing runner-up Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 7 8) won the competition in front of Kai Harada (3T4z 7 13). Jakob Schubert (1T4z 2 9) and Keita Dohi (1T4z 2 9) had identical final scores. Schubert was awarded the bronze medal by virtue of his better semi-final performance.[18]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3T4z 7 8
2 Japan Kai Harada 3T4z 7 13
3 Austria Jakob Schubert 1T4z 2 9
4 Japan Keita Dohi 1T4z 2 9
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T4z 3 18
6 Germany Jan Hojer 1T3z 9 11

Munich, Germany (18–19 May)[edit]

Women[edit]

89 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Most climbers from the Japanese team, including stars such as Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi, were absent,[19] opting to train for the combined instead. With Noguchi absent it was clear even before the competition was held, that the seasonal title would go to Janja Garnbret. Nonetheless Garnbret dominated the competition, topping all four semi-final boulders where of the other athletes only Ievgeniia Kazbekova could find a single top on a boulder. In the final Garnbret (4T4z 5 5) and Fanny Gibert (4T4z 8 6) topped all four boulders, but Garnbret won by number of attempts. Garnbret thus won her third consecutive title in Munich and the fifth consecutive title of the season, which will have her finish the season on the maximum points attainable (500) regardless of her result in Vail.[20] The bronze medal went to Mia Krampl (3T3z 9 9) who climbed through the final despite a knee injury.[21]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 5 5
2 France Fanny Gibert 4T4z 8 6
3 Slovenia Mia Krampl 3T4z 11 9
4 France Julia Chanourdie 2T2z 5 5
5 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 1T3z 3 7
6 Slovenia Katja Kadic 1T2z 1 6

Men[edit]

119 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Most climbers from the Japanese team, including stars such as Tomoa Narasaki, Rei Sugimoto and Kai Harada, were absent, opting to train for the combined instead. In the final Adam Ondra flashed the first three boulders, leading the competition in front of Jakob Schubert on two tops and three zones. However, Ondra (3T3z 3 3) could not find a zone on the final boulder whereas Schubert (3T4z 7 8) had topped, thus winning the competition. German Jan Hojer won bronze, making his first podium since his win in Munich two years before.[22][20]

Rank Name Score
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 3T4z 7 8
2 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 3T3z 3 3
3 Germany Jan Hojer 2T4z 4 14
4 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2T3z 5 6
5 Slovenia Anze Peharc 1T4z 3 6
6 South Korea Jongwon Chon 1T3z 5 9

Vail, United States (7–8 June)[edit]

Women[edit]

55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Several strong athletes decided not to attend including Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, and all of the Slovenian team aside from Janja Garnbret. Garnbret had already secured the overall seasonal title, but could become the first climber ever to make a complete sweep of a bouldering season, winning all World Cups.

Janja reached the final and completed boulders one and two. Going into the third boulder Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka had each topped number one and two while Fanny Gibert, Mao Nakamura, and Luce Douady had all failed to top the second boulder. Garnbret had fallen behind on number of attempts, however. As Nonaka and Noguchi could not find a top on the third boulder Garnbret seized the chance to take the lead, which put her in a position where she was guaranteed the victory if she could find a top on the final problem. When Noguchi completed the final problem it was clear that Garnbret would indeed have to match the top for the win. Ultimately Janja (4T4z 9 8) flashed the final boulder and secured her sixth straight win, completing the first sweep of a Bouldering World Cup season. Noguchi (3T4z 5 6) came in second and Gibert (2T4z 3 9) finished third.[23][24]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 9 8
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 5 6
3 France Fanny Gibert 2T4z 3 9
4 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T4z 5 5
5 France Luce Douady 1T4z 2 8
6 Japan Mao Nakamura 1T4z 3 10

Men[edit]

57 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Adam Ondra went into the competition with a 21-point lead over Tomoa Narasaki in the World Cup standings, meaning that Ondra would win the seasonal title if he finished in first or second place regardless of Narasaki's finish.

Ondra and Narasaki both made it to the final of the Vail competition along with Yoshiyuki Ogata, Jongwon Chon, Jan Hojer, and Sean McColl. All athletes but McColl found tops on the first two boulders. Ondra did not make it to the zone on the third, though, whereas Narasaki and Ogata completed the problem. The final boulder was only topped by Yoshiyuki Ogata (4T4z 11 9) who won his first bouldering World Cup being the only athlete to top all final boulders. Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 5 5) came in second while Adam Ondra (2T3z 3 4) finished fifth, which allowed Narasaki to overtake Ondra in the World Cup standings and claim the seasonal title. Jongwon Chon (3T4z 6 7) won the bronze medal, his first medal since his win in Navi Mumbai almost two years before.[25][26]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4z 11 9
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3T4z 5 5
3 South Korea Jongwon Chon 3T4z 6 7
4 Germany Jan Hojer 2T4z 4 6
5 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 2T3z 3 4
6 Canada Sean McColl 1T3z 3 9

References[edit]

  1. ^ John Burgman (February 18, 2019). "How climbers will be chosen for the 2020 olympics". Climbing.com.
  2. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  4. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 National Team Ranking".
  5. ^ a b "Ondra and Garnbret take the gold in a great final - 2019 Meiringen Bouldering World Cup". OnBouldering.com. 8 April 2019. Retrieved 8 April 2019.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 6 April 2019. Retrieved 8 April 2019.
  7. ^ John Burgman (8 April 2019). "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Meiringen World Cup 2019—Bouldering". Climbing Magazine.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 6 April 2019. Retrieved 8 April 2019.
  9. ^ Delaney Miller (8 April 2019). "Ondra Hand Jams His Way to Gold, Garnbret Wins Twentieth Career World Cup in Meiringen". Rock and Ice.
  10. ^ Peter Burnside (15 April 2019). "Shauna Coxsey wins silver in Moscow". The British Mountaineering Council.
  11. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 14 April 2019. Retrieved 16 April 2019.
  12. ^ a b Bonnie de Bruijn (15 April 2019). "Alannah Yip finishes 9th at Moscow Boulder WC". Gripped Magazine.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 14 April 2019. Retrieved 16 April 2019.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 28 April 2019. Retrieved 30 April 2019.
  15. ^ a b Burgman, John (6 May 2019). "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Wujiang World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". climbing.com. Retrieved 7 May 2019.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 28 April 2019. Retrieved 30 April 2019.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Wujiang (CHN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 May 2019. Retrieved 7 May 2019.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Wujiang(CHN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 May 2019. Retrieved 7 May 2019.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 19 May 2019. Retrieved 21 May 2019.
  20. ^ a b Bonnie de Bruijn (19 May 2019). "Munich Bouldering WC: Surprise for the Men, No Surprise for the Women". Gripped Magazine.
  21. ^ "A battle to the end for both sides". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 19 May 2019. Retrieved 21 May 2019.
  22. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 19 May 2019. Retrieved 21 May 2019.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Vail (GER) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 8 June 2019. Retrieved 12 June 2019.
  24. ^ "Janja Garnbret is First Ever to Sweep Boulder Season". Gripped Magazine. 8 June 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Vail (GER) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 8 June 2019. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
  26. ^ Bonnie de Bruijn (9 June 2019). "Yoshiyuki Ogata Wins His First Bouldering World Cup in Vail". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
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