Draft:Pattu of Western Rajasthan

Hand Spun, Hand woven, Wool skirt

Meghwal Weavers

Wool Pattu, also known as Pattu Shawls or Pattu Blankets, is a type of traditional textile made from wool that is commonly used in Western Rajasthan. This warm and cozy textile is used by various communities in the region, including the Rajputs, Jats, and Meghwal communities. Wool Pattu is often worn as a shawl by men and women during the winter months to keep warm, and it is also used as a blanket to cover cots and beds. Additionally, it is considered a valuable possession and is often used as a gift during weddings and other important events.

Pattus are warm blankets made of wool and are an important part of traditional clothing worn by people who live in the Thar Desert of Rajasthan. Skilled weavers from the Meghwal community in districts like Barmer, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, and Bikaner make these blankets. They are called "pattu" because they are narrow and look like bands. The weavers make these blankets by joining two strips of fabric measuring two feet wide and nine feet long using a special stitch called "Khilan." These blankets are designed to be long so that they can be wrapped around the body easily.

Pattus are especially useful for people who live in the desert and belong to lower castes. These blankets are thick and sturdy and can protect them from the harsh weather conditions and dust. They also represent the colorful clothing traditions of the region.

Type of Pattu textiles

"Pattu" is a term used to refer to a type of woolen fabric that is woven in Western Rajasthan, particularly in the regions of Jaisalmer, Barmer, and Bikaner. There are different types of pattu fabrics that are woven in Western Rajasthan, and these can vary based on the specific region and the techniques used in the weaving process.

There are several types of Pattu textiles that are woven in Western Rajasthan, each with its own unique characteristics and weaving techniques. Some of the other available Pattus include:

1.Jaisalmeri Pattu: This type of Pattu is woven in Jaisalmer district of Rajasthan and is known for its intricate designs and use of vibrant colors.

2.Bikaneri Pattu: This type of Pattu is woven in Bikaner district of Rajasthan and is characterized by its soft texture and the use of intricate designs, often created using a combination of wool

(Desi Oon) and cotton yarns.

3.Godaji Pattu: This type of Pattu is woven in the Barmer district of Rajasthan and is known for its thickness and durability. It is often used for making blankets and rugs.

4.Lohari Pattu: This type of Pattu is woven in the Jaisalmer and Barmer districts of Rajasthan and is known for its intricate designs and use of natural dyes.

5.Nagauri Pattu: This type of Pattu is woven in the Nagaur district of Rajasthan and is characterized by its use of bold, geometric designs.

6.Malani Pattu: is a type of pattu fabric that is woven in the Malani region of Western Rajasthan, which includes parts of Jaisalmer and Barmer districts. It is known for its intricate designs and the use of bright, vibrant colors. Malani Pattu is often woven using a plain weave and is used for making shawls, blankets, and other warm clothing items.

These are just a few examples of the different types of Pattu textiles that are available in Western Rajasthan. Each type of Pattu has its own unique characteristics and cultural significance, and is often used for a variety of purposes, such as making clothing, blankets, rugs, and decorative items, woven on pit-looms using extra weft weaving technique to give effect of embroidery on the loom.

Community

In western Rajasthan, the Meghwal community traditionally spun wool yarn for Pattu weaving. The Meghwal community is known for their expertise in wool spinning, and they have been involved in the wool trade and Pattu weaving for generations. They spin the wool by hand, using traditional tools and techniques, to produce high-quality yarn that is used for weaving Pattu shawls and blankets. The Meghwal community is also known for their intricate embroidery work, which they often add to the finished Pattu products.

The Meghwal community in Western Rajasthan is traditionally involved in spinning wool yarn by hand, and they are known for their expertise in wool spinning. They spin the wool by hand, using traditional tools and techniques, to produce high-quality yarn that is used for weaving Pattu shawls and blankets. They are also skilled weavers and use traditional handlooms for weaving.

The Jat community on the other hand, is known for their skills in wool and cotton spinning and weaving. They use a spinning tool called a charkha, which is a portable spinning wheel, to spin cotton fibers into yarn. They also use traditional handlooms for weaving.

While there is some overlap in the hand spinning and weaving practices of the Jat and Meghwal communities, their specialization and techniques differ. Both communities have contributed to the rich textile traditions of Western Rajasthan, and their skills continue to be passed down through generations.

Charkha (Spinning wheel and hand spinners)

Wooden Charkha

Hand spinning of wool for Pattu weaving is the process of twisting wool fibers into yarn by hand using traditional tools such as a hand spindle or a charkha. The wool fibers are first cleaned and carded to remove any impurities or knots. Then, the cleaned wool is spun into yarn by twisting the fibers together using a spindle or charkha.

Hand spinning of wool is a traditional skill that has been practiced in Western Rajasthan for generations. The wool yarn produced through hand spinning is of high quality and is

preferred for weaving Pattu shawls and blankets. Hand spinning allows for greater control over the thickness and texture of the yarn, resulting in a unique and distinct quality to the finished textile.

Today, while mechanized spinning has largely replaced hand spinning in many areas, there are still some traditional artisans and communities in Western Rajasthan that continue to practice hand spinning of wool for Pattu weaving. This traditional skill is an important part of the cultural heritage of the region and is still valued by many for its quality and authenticity.

Hand spinning has historically been a task performed by women in many cultures. In traditional societies, women would spin yarn for use in making textiles, such as clothing, blankets, and rugs. The process of hand spinning involves drawing out fibers from wool, cotton, or other materials and twisting them into yarn. This yarn is then used for weaving or knitting.

In many rural communities, hand spinning continues to be a crucial part of the textile production process, and women play a central role in this work. Women often spin yarn for their own use or for sale in local markets, generating income for their families. Hand spinning also provides women with a means of preserving traditional skills and knowledge and passing them on to future generations.

In recent years, there has been renewed interest in hand spinning as a form of craft and as a means of promoting sustainability and ethical fashion. Many women's cooperatives and self-help groups have been established to support women's involvement in hand spinning and other textile crafts, providing them with training, equipment, and market access.

Through their involvement in hand spinning, women have gained greater economic independence, enhanced their skills and knowledge, and gained a deeper appreciation for traditional crafts and cultural heritage. Hand spinning continues to be an important part of many communities around the world, preserving traditional practices and promoting sustainable and ethical fashion.

Gandhi and Charkha

Mahatma Gandhi was a strong advocate for hand spinning using the charkha, a traditional spinning wheel used in India for centuries. He believed that the practice of spinning one's own yarn was not only a means of promoting self-reliance and economic independence but also a way to promote spirituality and inner peace.

Gandhi's promotion of hand spinning using the charkha was part of his larger vision of a self-sufficient and independent India. He believed that by producing their own cloth, Indians could free themselves from the economic and cultural domination of the British Empire. He famously said, "I want the millions of my countrymen to spin their own yarn, weave their own cloth, and wear it themselves."

Gandhi himself was an avid spinner and would spin daily as a form of meditation and spiritual practice. He also saw spinning as a way to promote unity and equality among people of different castes and religions, as anyone could learn to spin regardless of their social status.

The charkha and hand spinning became important symbols of the Indian independence movement, with many people taking up the practice as a form of resistance against British imperialism. Today, the charkha remains an important cultural symbol in India and is still used by some people for hand spinning of cotton and other fibers. Gandhi's legacy of promoting hand spinning using the charkha continues to inspire people around the world to embrace traditional crafts and practices that promote self-reliance, sustainability, and spirituality.

Raw material Desi Oon (Indigenous wool)

Desi oon is a term used in India and Pakistan to refer to indigenous or locally produced wool. The term "oon" means wool in Hindi and Urdu. Desi oon is produced from the wool of local breeds of sheep and goats, which are adapted to the local climate and have unique qualities that make their wool particularly suited for hand spinning and weaving.

Desi oon is known for its softness, warmth, and durability, and is often used to make traditional textiles such as shawls, blankets, and carpets. It is also valued for its natural colors, which range from white and cream to brown, gray, and black, and can be used to create beautiful, earthy tones in textiles.

In recent years, there has been renewed interest in desi oon and other locally produced fibers as people become more interested in sustainable and ethical fashion. Desi oon is seen as a more environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic fibers and factory-produced wool, as it is produced locally, with less carbon footprint, and is less harmful to the environment.

Today, there are many artisans and weavers in India and Pakistan who continue to use desi oon in their traditional crafts, preserving the rich cultural heritage of the region while promoting sustainable and ethical practices.

Women and wool

Women have played a significant role in the production of woolen textiles for centuries. In many parts of the world, including Western Rajasthan, women have been involved in every stage of the woolen textile production process, from shearing the sheep and goats to spinning the wool into yarn and weaving the yarn into fabrics.

In rural communities, women have traditionally created woolen textiles for domestic use, making blankets, shawls, and other garments to keep their families warm during the winter months. They would also create carpets, mats, and other household items. In some communities, women would even decorate the woolen fabrics with intricate embroidery and other forms of embellishment.

Today, there are many women's cooperatives and self-help groups that have been set up to support women's involvement in the production and marketing of woolen textiles. Through their involvement in woolen textile production, women are able to generate income, gain skills and knowledge, and participate more fully in their communities.

In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in the traditional woolen textiles of many regions, including Western Rajasthan. This interest has led to increased demand for these textiles, providing women with greater opportunities for economic empowerment and preserving a rich cultural tradition.

Slow fashion and Pattu weaving

Slow fashion is a movement that aims to promote sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry. It emphasizes the use of natural and sustainable materials, as well as traditional techniques of production that prioritize quality and durability over fast and disposable fashion.

Pattu weaving in Western Rajasthan is an excellent example of slow fashion. The traditional techniques of hand spinning and weaving used in the production of Pattu fabrics are inherently sustainable, as they use natural materials and require minimal use of machinery or energy. Additionally, the long history of Pattu weaving in Western Rajasthan means that the artisans who produce these fabrics have inherited generations of knowledge and skills, which they continue to refine and pass on to the next generation.

The production of Pattu fabrics also supports local communities and economies, as many of the materials used are sourced from within the region and the artisans who produce the fabrics are often from the same communities in which they are sold.

Furthermore, Pattu fabrics are often made to last, with durable fibers and intricate designs that are meant to be treasured and passed down over generations. This emphasis on quality and durability is a hallmark of slow fashion and stands in contrast to the fast and disposable fashion that dominates much of the modern clothing industry.

Overall, Pattu weaving in Western Rajasthan embodies many of the values and practices of the slow fashion movement. It emphasizes sustainability, quality, and community, and provides an alternative to the fast and disposable fashion that is so prevalent in today's world

Production process of Pattu textile

The production process of Pattu textile from Western Rajasthan typically involves the following steps:

Shearing and Cleaning: The wool is sheared from the sheep and then cleaned to remove any impurities, such as dirt or vegetable matter.

Carding and Spinning: The cleaned wool is then carded to separate the fibers and make them more uniform in length. The fibers are then spun into yarn using a traditional spinning wheel or charkha.

Natural Dyeing: The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes made from plants, minerals, or insects. This process involves boiling the yarn in a dye bath with the desired color and mordant, which helps to fix the color to the fibers.

Warping and Weaving: The dyed yarn is then warped onto a loom, which sets the length and width of the fabric. The weaver then uses a shuttle to weave the yarn back and forth, creating the desired pattern and texture of the fabric.

Finishing: Once the weaving is complete, the fabric is washed and any excess dye or impurities are removed. The fabric is then dried and may be ironed or pressed to give it a smooth finish.

The above process is a general outline of the production process of Pattu textile from Western Rajasthan, and may vary depending on the specific type of Pattu and the artisan producing it. However, the use of traditional techniques and natural materials is a common thread throughout the production process, highlighting the sustainability and cultural importance of Pattu weaving in the region.

Sheep Cluster

Sheep breeds in Western Rajasthan

There are several breeds of sheep in western Rajasthan that have traditionally been used for wool production and pattu weaving, including:

1. Chokla: Chokla sheep are a breed of sheep found in Rajasthan and are known for their wool production. They are usually reared in arid and semi-arid regions of the state.
2. Marwari: Marwari sheep are also found in Rajasthan and are known for their coarse wool. The wool is used for making carpets, shawls, and blankets.
3. Magra: Magra sheep are a breed of sheep found in western Rajasthan and are known for their fine wool. The wool is used for making shawls, blankets, and other textiles.
4. Malpura: Malpura sheep are another breed found in Rajasthan, and are known for their fine wool. The wool is used for making blankets, shawls, and other textiles.

These breeds have been selectively bred over generations to produce high-quality wool that is suitable for pattu weaving and other textiles. However, the use of these breeds and the traditional knowledge associated with pattu weaving are under threat due to various factors like climate change, changing market demands, and the availability of alternative materials. Efforts are being made to promote and conserve these breeds and the associated traditional knowledge to ensure the sustainability of the pattu weaving industry.

Environmental benefits from Pattu weaving

Pattu textile from Western Rajasthan offers several environmental benefits due to its sustainable production process and use of natural materials. Some of the key environmental benefits of Pattu textile are:

1.Sustainable Materials: Pattu textile is made from natural materials, such as wool, which is a renewable resource. The use of natural materials reduces the reliance on synthetic materials, which require large amounts of energy and resources to produce and can have negative environmental impacts.

2.Chemical-free Production: Pattu textile is often produced using natural dyes, which are free from harmful chemicals and pollutants. This reduces the risk of chemical runoff and contamination of local water sources.

3.Energy Efficiency: The production process of Pattu textile is largely manual and requires minimal use of machinery, resulting in lower energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions compared to mass-produced textiles.

4.Waste Reduction: The production process of Pattu textile generates little waste, as the natural materials are biodegradable and can be easily recycled or repurposed.

5.Longevity: Pattu textile is often made to last, with durable fibers and intricate designs that are meant to be treasured and passed down over generations. This emphasis on quality and durability reduces the need for frequent replacement, which can contribute to the accumulation of textile waste.

Overall, Pattu textile from Western Rajasthan offers several environmental benefits due to its sustainable production process, use of natural materials, and emphasis on quality and durability. By supporting the production and use of Pattu textile, we can promote more sustainable and responsible practices in the fashion industry.

Handloom and handwoven

Handloom refers to the traditional method of weaving textiles using a manually operated loom. Handloom weaving is a labor-intensive process that involves interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other to create a fabric. The handloom process is entirely manual, with each weaver operating the loom by hand to produce a piece of cloth.

Handloom weaving is an important part of the cultural heritage of many countries, including India. The handloom sector provides employment to millions of people in India, particularly in rural areas, and is an important source of income for many communities.

Pitloom Weaver

Pit loom and hand weaving

Pit loom weaving is a type of handloom weaving that is commonly used in the production of traditional textiles such as pattu in Western Rajasthan. The pit loom is so named because it is set up in a pit in the ground, with the weaver sitting on the ground in front of the loom to operate it.

Pitloom Weaver

Shuttle on the wool warp

Pit loom weaving involves interlacing two sets of threads at right angles to each other to create a fabric. The warp threads are attached to the loom frame and are held taut, while the weft threads are passed over and under the warp threads to create the fabric. The weaver operates the loom by hand, using a foot pedal to raise and lower the warp threads and create the shed through which the weft thread is passed.

Pit loom weaving is a slow and labor-intensive process that requires skill and patience. However, it produces textiles that are known for their durability and beauty, with intricate designs and vibrant colors. The pit loom is particularly well-suited for the production of pattu textiles, which are woven from wool or a combination of wool and silk.

Pattu weaving on a pit loom typically involves a number of steps, including cleaning and carding the wool, spinning the yarn, dyeing the yarn with natural dyes, and finally weaving the fabric on the loom. The finished pattu textile is then often embellished with embroidery or other decorative techniques.

Overall, pit loom weaving is an important part of the cultural heritage of Western Rajasthan, and the production of pattu textiles using this technique continues to be an important source of income for many communities in the region.

The socio- economic condition of Pattu weavers and spinners

The socio-economic condition of pattu weavers and hand spinners can vary depending on a number of factors such as the region they live in, the demand for their products, and the level of support they receive from the government and other organizations.

In Western Rajasthan, where pattu weaving is a traditional craft, many weavers and hand spinners come from rural communities and may belong to lower castes or tribes. They often work in cooperatives or groups, and the income they earn from their craft can be an important source of livelihood for themselves and their families.

However, pattu weavers and hand spinners also face a number of challenges, including competition from machine-made textiles, a lack of access to raw materials and markets, and low wages. They may also be vulnerable to exploitation by middlemen and traders who take advantage of their lack of bargaining power.

To address these issues, various government and non-governmental organizations have launched initiatives to support pattu weavers and hand spinners. These initiatives may include providing training and education, improving access to markets and raw materials, and promoting the use of sustainable and eco-friendly practices in the production of pattu textiles. By supporting the socio-economic empowerment of pattu weavers and hand spinners, these initiatives can help to preserve the traditional craft of pattu weaving and promote sustainable livelihoods in rural communities.

URMUL and Pattu craft (a NGO promoting crafts of Thar Desert)

URMUL is a non-profit organization based in the Indian state of Rajasthan that focuses on the empowerment of rural communities through sustainable development initiatives. One of their initiatives is the promotion of traditional craft s such as Pattu weaving.

Pattu weaving is a traditional craft of the weaver communities in the Barmer and Jaisalmer districts of Rajasthan. The weavers use hand-operated looms to weave colorful fabrics using cotton or silk yarns. The process of Pattu weaving involves various stages such as dyeing, sizing, warping, and weaving. The weavers use natural dyes to color the fabrics, and the patterns and designs are often inspired by local flora and fauna.

URMUL has been working to promote Pattu weaving as a means of generating income for rural communities in the region. They provide training and support to weavers, help them access markets for their products, and also work to preserve the traditional techniques and designs of the craft.

Through their efforts, URMUL has helped to revive the Pattu weaving tradition in the region, providing a sustainable source of income for local communities and contributing to the preservation of Rajasthan's cultural heritage.

See also

• Climate Change
• Sustainable fashion
• Ecological design
• Wool

References

• https://www.jstor.org/stable/4403482https://asiainch.org/craft/pattu-weaving-of-rajasthan/https://www.inspirajournals.com/uploads/Issues/20813090.pdfhttps://www.tcrc.in/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Article_4_SRnew.pdf#:~:text=Pattus%20have%20been%20an%20important%20part%20of%20the,the%20same%20time%20symbolized%20their%20colourful%20clothing%20traditions.
• https://www.tcrc.in/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Article_4_SRnew.pdf#:~:text=Pattus%20have%20been%20an%20important%20part%20of%20the,the%20same%20time%20symbolized%20their%20colourful%20clothing%20traditions.
• https://www.researchgate.net/publication/365426235_GONGADI_THE_INDIGENOUS_WOOLLEN_CRAFT_OF_DECCANhttps://www.researchgate.net/publication/315765617_Crafts_Craftspeople_and_Sustainable_Livelihoods_in_the_Indian_Thar_the_experience_of_the_URMUL_Trusthttps://www.researchgate.net/publication/353774216_Pattu_The_Dying_Fabric_Making_Art_of_Baltistanhttps://urmul.orghttps://www.vogue.in/content/ministry-textiles-latest-move-aims-boost-handloom-sectorhttps://ignca.gov.in/divisionss/janapada-sampada/northeastern-regional-centre/types-of-looms/https://searchworks.stanford.edu/view/8447002https://vikaspedia.in/agriculture/livestock/sheep-and-goat-farming/breeds-of-sheep-goathttps://www.agrifarming.in/indian-sheep-breeds

External links

• Slow Fashion"Site is undergoing maintenance". slow fashion movement -. Retrieved 2023-04-24.
• Sustainable Fashion
• Biodiversity
• Gongadi wool craft
• Avani Kumaon
• Center for Pastoralism
• Khamir
• Anthra
• UNEP
• Living-lightly exhibition
• UNESCO
• Wool craft of Kinnaur
• Fibershed Movement
• Projecthandstitch and slow fashion