2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships
2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships | |
---|---|
Location | ![]() |
Date | 9 – 13 July 2003 |
Competitors | 241 from 34 nations |
The 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 7th edition, were held in Chamonix, France from 9 to 13 July 2003. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.[1][2]
Medalists
[edit]Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Men's Lead | Tomas Mrazek![]() |
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza![]() |
David Caude![]() | |||
Men's Bouldering | Christian Core![]() |
Jerome Meyer![]() |
Tomasz Oleksy![]() | |||
Men's Speed | Maksym Styenkovyy![]() |
Tomasz Oleksy![]() |
Alexander Peshekhonov![]() | |||
Women's Lead | Muriel Sarkany![]() |
Emilie Pouget![]() |
Sandrine Levet![]() | |||
Women's Bouldering | Sandrine Levet![]() |
Nataliya Perlova![]() |
Fanny Rogeaux![]() | |||
Women's Speed | Olena Ryepko![]() |
Tatiana Ruyga![]() |
Valentina Yurina![]() |
Lead
[edit]Men
[edit]Tomáš Mrázek clinched gold medal after climbing 2 meters higher than the rest of the field. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza won silver medal by edging out David Caude who took bronze. Alexandre Chabot placed 5th.[3]
Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result[4][3] | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
R1 | R2 | ||||||
![]() |
Tomáš Mrázek | ![]() |
Top | 22.50- | 23.55- | 9500 | |
![]() |
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza | ![]() |
Top | 20.64- | 21.29+ | 7600 | |
![]() |
David Caude | ![]() |
Top | 24.24+ | 21.29 | 6175 | |
4 | Christian Bindhammer | ![]() |
Top | 20.64 | 15.40- | 5225 | |
5 | Alexandre Chabot | ![]() |
Top | 25.00- | 14.48- | 4845 | |
6 | Sylvain Millet | ![]() |
Top | 23.76- | 12.31- | 4465 | |
7 | Ramón Julián Puigblanqué | ![]() |
Top | 22.87- | 10.81 | 4085 | |
8 | Evgeny Ovchinnikov | ![]() |
Top | 20.64 | 10.81 | 3800 |
Women
[edit]Muriel Sarkany took the win by climbing 2 meter higher than her closest competition. Six climbers struggled on the same hold: touching, holding, or moving off it. In the end, Emilie Pouget claimed silver medal, ahead of her teammate Sandrine Levet who claimed bronze.[3]
Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result[5][3] |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
Muriel Sarkany | ![]() |
Top | Top | 24.60- | 8400 |
![]() |
Emilie Pouget | ![]() |
Top | 18.15- | 22.27+ | 6720 |
![]() |
Sandrine Levet | ![]() |
Top | Top | 22.27 | 5460 |
4 | Jenny Lavarda | ![]() |
Top | 18.15 | 22.27- | 4620 |
5 | Alexandra Eyer | ![]() |
Top | 18.15- | 22.27- | 4284 |
6 | Caroline Ciavaldini | ![]() |
Top | 16.94 | 22.27- | 3948 |
7 | Angela Eiter | ![]() |
Top | 16.94- | 22.27- | 3612 |
8 | Barbara Bacher | ![]() |
Top | 17.42+ | 20.12 | 3360 |
9 | Emily Harrington | ![]() |
Top | 16.94- | 17.72- | 3108 |
10 | Olga Shalagina | ![]() |
Top | 16.94- | 7.26- | 2856 |
Bouldering
[edit]Bouldering scores were decided by number of tops, number of attempts to tops, number of zones, and number of attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
Men
[edit]Christian Core sent four boulder problems in the final round and won gold medal after edging out Jérôme Meyer by one less attempt. Tomasz Oleksy placed 3rd.[6]
Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Final | Result[7][6] | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | ||||
![]() |
Christian Core | ![]() |
1 | 1 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 4 | 7 | 5 | 7 | 7900 |
![]() |
Jérôme Meyer | ![]() |
2 | 2 | 6 | 14 | 6 | 4 | 8 | 6 | 7 | 6320 |
![]() |
Tomasz Oleksy | ![]() |
3 | 3 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 8 | 5135 |
4 | Mauro Calibani | ![]() |
4 | 9 | 5 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 7 | 4345 |
5 | Kilian Fischhuber | ![]() |
2 | 5 | 4 | 8 | 10 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 4029 |
6 | Serik Kazbekov | ![]() |
4 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 4 | 6 | 3713 |
7 | Salavat Rakhmetov | ![]() |
4 | 6 | 6 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 3397 |
8 | Akito Matsushima | ![]() |
3 | 4 | 5 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 3160 |
9 | Stephane Julien | ![]() |
2 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 9 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 8 | 2923 |
10 | Andrew Earl | ![]() |
2 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 9 | 2686 |
11 | Alexander Meikl | ![]() |
1 | 1 | 4 | 9 | 12 | 2 | 8 | 4 | 14 | 2449 |
12 | Georgos Progulakis | ![]() |
2 | 4 | 6 | 11 | 8 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 8 | 2212 |
Women
[edit]Sandrine Levet topped 5 boulder problems in the final round, securing a gold medal. Nataliya Perlova sent 3 problems and placed second, while Fanny Rogeaux sent 2 problems in two attempts claiming third place.[6]
Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Final | Result[8][6] | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | ||||
![]() |
Sandrine Levet | ![]() |
6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 5 | 14 | 6 | 13 | 7600 |
![]() |
Nataliya Perlova | ![]() |
5 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 12 | 3 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 6080 |
![]() |
Fanny Rogeaux | ![]() |
6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4940 |
4 | Olga Bibik | ![]() |
5 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 10 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 4180 |
5 | Juliette Danion | ![]() |
5 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 2 | 4 | 5 | 16 | 3876 |
6 | Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova | ![]() |
6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3572 |
7 | Venera Chereshneva | ![]() |
6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 4 | 3268 |
8 | Olga Shalagina | ![]() |
6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 3040 |
9 | Myriam Motteau | ![]() |
6 | 9 | 6 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 2812 |
10 | Yulia Abramchuk | ![]() |
6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 2584 |
11 | Stella Marchisio | ![]() |
5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 9 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2356 |
12 | Corinne Theroux | ![]() |
6 | 10 | 6 | 9 | 8 | 1 | 6 | 4 | 11 | 2128 |
Speed
[edit]Men
[edit]Maksym Styenkovvy took the win. Tomasz Oleksy placed second and Alexander Peshekhonov placed third.
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | 1/2-Final | small Final | Final | Result[9] |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
Maksym Styenkovyy | ![]() |
28.81 | 25.97 | 21.55 | 21.31 | 5500 |
![]() |
Tomasz Oleksy | ![]() |
32.15 | 25.96 | 24.31 | 25.71 | 4400 |
![]() |
Alexander Peshekhonov | ![]() |
32.74 | 26.96 | 22.11 | 3575 | |
4 | Oleksandr Salimov | ![]() |
35.20 | 28.74 | 27.43 | 3025 | |
5 | Alexei Gadeev | ![]() |
31.05 | 29.66 | 2805 | ||
6 | Dmytro Konovalov | ![]() |
34.53 | 26.72 | 2585 | ||
7 | Sergei Sinitcyn | ![]() |
28.29 | 31.74 | 2365 | ||
8 | Iakov Soubbotine | ![]() |
26.64 | 27.01 | 2200 | ||
9 | Yevgen Kryvosheytsev | ![]() |
29.01 | 27.19 | 2035 | ||
10 | Csaba Komondi | ![]() |
32.53 | 30.03 | 1870 | ||
11 | Alexandre Chaoulsky | ![]() |
28.46 | 30.87 | 1705 | ||
12 | Ivan Shyshkovskyy | ![]() |
40.25 | 34.18 | 1540 | ||
13 | Salah Boulbahaiem | ![]() |
48.95 | 42.32 | 1430 | ||
14 | Mathieu Dutray | ![]() |
34.80 | elim. | 1320 | ||
14 | Nicolas Januel | ![]() |
33.84 | elim. | 1320 | ||
14 | Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor | ![]() |
33.45 | elim. | 1320 | ||
17 | C. M. Praveen | ![]() |
49.98 | 1008 | |||
18 | Kyrylo Shevchenko | ![]() |
elim. | 896 |
Women
[edit]Olena Ryepko took the win. Tatiana Ruyga placed second and Yurina Valentina third.
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | small Final | Final | Result[10] |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() |
Olena Ryepko | ![]() |
43.57 | 37.15 | 35.76 | 3300 |
![]() |
Tatiana Ruyga | ![]() |
44.38 | 37.86 | 37.68 | 2640 |
![]() |
Valentina Yurina | ![]() |
43.72 | 42.25 | 2145 | |
4 | Olga Zakharova | ![]() |
43.09 | 38.86 | 1815 | |
5 | Mayya Piratinskaya | ![]() |
45.38 | 1683 | ||
6 | Olga Bezhko | ![]() |
53.68 | 1551 | ||
7 | Edyta Ropek | ![]() |
48.96 | 1419 | ||
8 | Olena Ostapenko | ![]() |
51.14 | 1320 | ||
9 | Svetlana Sutkina | ![]() |
53.83 | 1776 | ||
10 | Agung Ethi Hendrawati | ![]() |
57.45 | 1632 | ||
11 | Sabine Knabl | ![]() |
59.22 | 1488 | ||
12 | Nataliya Perlova | ![]() |
60.54 | 1344 | ||
13 | M. N. Vathsala | ![]() |
86.02 | 1248 | ||
14 | Bangalore Subbarao Archana | ![]() |
elim. | 1152 | ||
14 | Anna Stenkovaya | ![]() |
elim. | 1152 |
References
[edit]- ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-08-30.
- ^ "digitalROCK presents: UIAA Worldchampionship - Chamonix (FRA) 2003". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ a b c d "Sarkany and Mrazek World Champions". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2017-08-10. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ "Result: M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ "Result: W O M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ a b c d "Christian Core and Sandrine Levet are Bouldering World Champions!". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2017-08-11. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ "Result: M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ "Result: W O M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ "Result: M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
- ^ "Result: W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.