Berluti
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Company type | Subsidiary of public company |
---|---|
Industry | Fashion |
Founded | 1895 |
Founder | Alessandro Berluti |
Headquarters | , |
Products | Shoes, boots, leatherware |
Owner | LVMH |
Website | www |
Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin[1] in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993.[2]
In 2023, the brand returned to Paris Fashion Week despite operating without a creative director.[3] The role was most recently held by Kris Van Assche from 2018 to 2021.[4]
History
[edit]Berluti was founded in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti, and later run by Olga Squeri, also known as Olga Berluti.[5] The LVMH group acquired Berluti in 1993. In 2012, Berluti acquired Paris tailor house Arnys and launched its first prêt-à-porter menswear collections.[6]
In 2011, Olga Berluti was named creative director of the Berluti Art line.[7]
From 2011 to 2023, Berluti was headed by LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Antoine Arnault, who also serves as the chairman of Loro Piana.[8] In March 2014, Isabella Capece Galeota became director of image and communications.[9][10]
Between 2011 and 2014, Berluti increased its annual revenue from less than 30 million euros ($32.6 million) to €100 million ($109 million), having expanded its product offering, bought a custom atelier and increased its global store network to 46 boutiques.[11]
In 2013, Berluti worked with Dutch artist Maarten Baas on created a series of sculptures.[12]
In 2017, Berluti introduced a sunglass collection in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.[13]
In 2018, creative director Kris Van Assche reconfigured the existing Berluti logo based on one he found carved into a shoe last and devised with M/M Paris.[14]
All the footwear manufacturing and leather goods are produced in the town of Gaibanella in the municipality of Ferrara,[15] while Paris is the location of the corporate headquarters.
Berluti designed uniforms for the French team at the opening ceremony of the 2024 Olympics and Paralympics in France.[16][17]
Creative directors
[edit]- 2011–2016: Alessandro Sartori[18]
- 2016–2018: Haider Ackermann[19][20][21][22][23][24][25]
- 2018–2021: Kris Van Assche[26][27]
Recognition
[edit]In 2017 Business of Fashion named Berluti among the 16 best companies to work for in the fashion industry.[28]
References
[edit]- ^ Berluti Stores
- ^ LVMH Using Berluti Brand as a Steppingstone in Menswear Wall Street Journal, Christina Passariello, January 29, 2014
- ^ Diderich, Joelle (18 January 2023). "Berluti Returns to Paris Fashion Week With a New Approach". WWD. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
- ^ The Challenge of Freedom: Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Luke Leitch, vogue.com 17 January 2019
- ^ "Olga Berluti" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 November 2013. Retrieved 1 December 2013.
- ^ Masidlover, Nadya (15 June 2012). "LVMH Acquires Taste for Bespoke". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
- ^ Katya Foreman (26 September 2011), Olga Berluti Assumes Berluti Creative Role Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ businessoffashion.com Antoine Arnault
- ^ Socha, Miles (17 March 2014). "Louis Vuitton Taps Edouard Schneider to Head P.R." WWD. Retrieved 18 March 2014.
- ^ Miles Socha (21 November 2023), Antoine Arnault to Relinquish CEO Role at Berluti Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Elizabeth Paton (2 February 2016), Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle New York Times.
- ^ Rachel Felder (5 December 2013), Berluti Does Basel Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Miles Socha (28 October 2016), Berluti, Oliver Peoples Team for Eyewear Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Alexander Fury (18 January 2019), AW19 Paris mens: The Berluti re-boot Financial Times.
- ^ WW, FashionNetwork com. "Berluti picks up speed with a large production site in Italy". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
- ^ Mimosa Spencer (16 November 2023), LVMH's Berluti to design Olympics opening ceremony uniforms for French teams Reuters.
- ^ Dazed (25 July 2024). "The hardest Olympic uniforms of all time". Dazed. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
- ^ berluti.com Alessandro Sartori Retrieved 5 November 2015
- ^ Kate Abnett, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann Creative Director businessoffashion.com 1 September 2016
- ^ LUKE LEITCH Why Haider Ackermann’s New Berluti Gig Is Menswear’s Most Tantalizing Appointment Archived 3 September 2016 at the Wayback Machine vogue.com 1 September 2016
- ^ Vanessa Friedman, Haider Ackermann Named Creative Director of Berluti The New York Times 2016/09/01
- ^ Megan Gustashaw, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann as Creative Director GQ.com
- ^ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017
- ^ Fall/Winter 2017 Archived 9 May 2017 at the Wayback Machine berluti.com
- ^ Schneier, Matthew (30 March 2018). "Haider Ackermann Exits Berluti". The New York Times. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ Yotka, Steff (3 April 2018). "Kris Van Assche Named Artistic Director at Berluti". Vogue. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ "Login • Instagram". Archived from the original on 24 December 2021.
{{cite web}}
: Cite uses generic title (help) - ^ Taylor Branson, THE FASHION COMPANIES YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR RIGHT NOW: Business of Fashion released their first-ever report on the best companies to work for in fashion. harpersbazaar.com 24 April 2017
External links
[edit]- Berluti official website
- Berluti, a luxury brand from LVMH Group
- YouTube looks inside Berluti boutiques at NYC Madison Ave, Tokyo Ginza, Shanghai IFC