Cuisine of Jerusalem

Stews at Azura, an Iraqi/Kurdi Jewish restaurant at the Mahane Yehuda Market

The cuisine of Jerusalem reflects the long history of Jerusalem as a crossroads of cultures and religions. Millennia of trade, conquest, and migration have resulted in a unique fusion of culinary traditions, with significant influences from Jewish (predominantly Sephardic, but also Kurdish, Ashkenazi, and other communities) and Levantine Arab cuisine.

Dishes in Jerusalem feature fresh, seasonal ingredients typical of the Mediterranean climate, with a strong emphasis on vegetables, fruits, olive oil, and herbs. Street food is a prominent aspect of the culinary scene, thriving in bustling markets such as the Mahane Yehuda Market and the Arab souk of the Old City. Modern Jerusalem caters to a global palate, with a growing number of restaurants offering international fare alongside traditional dishes. This diverse culinary landscape ensures that both locals and visitors can enjoy a wide variety of food experiences.

Jerusalem is known for several iconic dishes, including the Jerusalem bagel, a long, oval-shaped bread typically topped with sesame seeds or za'atar; Jerusalem mixed grill, a dish made from chicken hearts, spleens, and liver mixed with bits of lamb and fried with onions and spices; and kubbeh, a type of dumpling made from bulgur or semolina filled with minced meat served in soup. Sephardic classics such as bourekas (savory pastries), biscochos (cookies), sofrito (a meat stew), orez shu'it (rice and beans), makaroni hamin (slow-cooked pasta), and pastelikos (meat-stuffed pastries) are also prevalent. Additionally, Ashkenazi Kugel Yerushalmi, a traditional noodle casserole, and Middle Eastern staples like hummus, falafel, shawarma, and knafeh, are integral to Jerusalem's culinary identity.

History

There are literary and archaeological remnants that shed light on the cuisine of ancient Jerusalem. In Samuel II, David is said to have distributed ashishim, lentil pancakes, among the city's inhabitants. Archaeological findings reveal traces of vanilla discovered in wine jars from the 7th to 6th centuries BCE, suggesting that local elites enjoyed vanilla-flavored wine—a notable early use of this spice in the Old World. Additionally, the earliest archaeological evidence of citrus fruits in the Middle East dates back to the 5th and 6th centuries BCE, discovered in the Ramat Rachel area.

Mahane Yehuda Market in 1964

Jerusalem's cuisine has evolved significantly over the past two centuries. In the early 19th century, the city housed about 9,000 residents, including 2,000 Jews from Sephardic, Musta'arabi, and Ashkenazi backgrounds. These communities maintained distinct culinary traditions from their countries of origin, blending with local Arab ingredients and cooking methods. This period marked the beginning of a unique Jerusalemite cuisine that combined various Jewish traditions with local Arab influences. A significant role in shaping this culinary landscape was played by Sephardic Jews, descendants of those expelled from Spain, who arrived from the Ottoman Empire in the 17th and 18th centuries. Their influence led to a predominantly Sephardic character in the city's food culture.

As Jerusalem's population grew, so did its Jewish community, eventually reaching two-thirds of the city's total. This growth brought further diversification to the culinary scene. The early 19th century saw an influx of Jews from Eastern and Western Europe, along with migrants from Turkey, Syria, the Balkans and North Africa. The arrival of Jews from the Maghreb in the 1840s, and later from Iran, Bukhara, Yemen, and Kurdistan in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, introduced new culinary influences. Each group brought unique ingredients and cooking techniques, further enriching Jerusalemite cuisine.

In the post-World War II era and following the establishment of the State of Israel, Jerusalem continued to see a melding of culinary traditions. The influx of Jewish immigrants from around the world further enriched the city's food culture. Modern Jerusalemite cuisine is a dynamic blend of historical influences and contemporary innovations. Today, it reflects a fusion of ancient recipes and modern culinary practices, representing the city's diverse and vibrant Jewish community.

Breads and pastries

Jerusalem bagel

The Jerusalem bagel is a traditional bread originating from Jerusalem, known for its unique long, oval shape. It is softer and lighter than the classic round bagel. It is typically coated with toppings such as sesame seeds and served alongside za'atar, a Levantine herb blend, and hard-boiled eggs. A date-filled bread called maaruk, enriched with eggs and given a yellow hue from turmeric, can be found in the Old City. The Yemenite Jewish community introduced jachnun to the city, and it became a staple in the local diet.

The Jerusalem kugel, a spiced noodle casserole commonly served on Shabbat

Yerushalmi kugel, a speciality of Jerusalem, is a unique dish combining sweet and savory flavors. Made with caramel, black pepper, and egg noodles, it develops a crisp exterior and a chewy interior when baked. This casserole, often found in Orthodox Jewish communities, is characterized by its rich, peppery, and sweet taste. The dish may trace its origins to the 19th century, when Ashkenazi Jews brought kugel to Jerusalem, adapting its ingredients to local availability by incorporating caramel and a Sephardic-influenced sharpness. Yerushalmi kugel can be served warm or cold, and reheated multiple times, making it a popular choice for Shabbat, when it is commonly served at kiddush or as a side dish accompanying cholent.

Main dishes

Red kubbeh soup with pita, pickled cucumbers and hummus

Kubbeh, a dumpling soup of Iraqi Jewish origin, is an iconic dish of Jerusalem cuisine, often enjoyed as a pre-Shabbat meal during Friday lunch. Starting in the 1980s, this dish, which had been mostly eaten within the small Kurdish Jewish community, began appearing in simple eateries around Mahane Yehuda market, and gradually became popular among a wider audience. Today, kubbeh is widely enjoyed in Jerusalem—whether at home, taken out, shared with friends and neighbors, or savored in restaurants as a beloved comfort food. The dish is served at restaurants such as Azura, Morduch, Ima and Rachmo. Popular versions include kubbeh hamusta, a sour soup, and kubbeh selek, made with a red beet broth.

Another popular dish in Jerusalem is sofrito, a stew of Sephardic Jewish origin. Beef sofrito, a mixture of beef, potatoes and spices, is served in places such as Azura and Barood. Azura, a renown family restaurant in the Mahana Yehuda Market, often hailed as one of the country's finest "workers' restaurants", serves alongside sofrito other traditional dishes such as kubbeh and lung stew. Barood, located within the historic Feingold courtyard and established in 1995, is a gastropub known for its Sephardi cuisine, which also includes pastelikos, boycos and leek fritters.

Jerusalem mixed-grill, a speciality of Jerusalem including chicken thighs, hearts, and livers, caramelized onions and spices

Jerusalem mixed grill is a dish believed to have originated from the Mahane Yehuda Market. It consists of chicken thighs, hearts, and livers cooked with baharat, a Middle Eastern spice blend typically containing cinnamon, allspice, coriander, black pepper, cardamom, and cloves, along with caramelized onions. Traditionally prepared on a griddle, it can be made in a regular pan as well. The combination of spices and caramelized onions creates a rich and exciting flavor profile, that can also be served in a pita.

Macaroni Hamin is a Jerusalemite variation of hamin (also known as cholent), a slow-cooked stew traditionally served on Shabbat. This dish incorporates pasta (usually macaroni or bucatini), alongside chicken.

In the Old City of Jerusalem, several popular hummus eateries draw crowds, including Abu Shukri, Lina, Abu Kamal, and Arafat. Abu Shukri, known for its hand-prepared hummus, also offers dishes like msabbaha (whole chickpeas mixed with tahini) and ful (spiced fava beans). Due to limited seating, it's common to find locals lining up for takeaway breakfasts. The Butchers' Market is home to Kebab Abu Shaheen, a kebab restaurant managed by descendants of a Turkish Muslim family believed to have founded the establishment during the Ottoman period.

Hummus served in a restaurant at the Artists' Colony

Desserts

Knafeh served at Jafar Sweets, a shop in the Old City of Jerusalem

Knafeh, a Middle Eastern dessert made with kadayif and melted cheese and topped with pistachios and sugar syrup, is well-loved in Jerusalem. This dessert is typically found in Arab sweet shops, often served alongside other desserts, such as baklava. One notable establishment is Jafar Sweets, a well-known knafeh shop located in the Old City's Christian Quarter, not far from the Damascus Gate. Also in the Old City, Al Aseel Sweets on Al-Wad Street offers knafeh on Fridays and Saturdays. In 2017, the first kosher knafeh shop, Ir David, opened in the Mahane Yehuda Market, quickly gaining popularity and inspiring the establishment of additional kosher knafeh shops. Rugelach is also popular, notably at Marzipan, a bakery known for its gooey chocolate version of the pastry, which attracts large crowds.

Jerusalem features a variety of ice cream shops catering to different tastes. Mousseline is known for its silky French-style gelato and inventive flavors like basil and saffron, reflecting a local twist. Aldo, known for its Italian-style gelato made fresh daily, offers flavors such as pistachio and salted caramel, while providing a cozy atmosphere on Emek Refaim and other locations. Katzefet, a longtime favorite on Ben Yehuda Street, attracts visitors due to its creamy offerings and ample outdoor seating, featuring flavors like triple chocolate and the innovative chocolate beigele. Jetlek, influenced by European parlors, offers a more luxurious setting and extravagant ice cream creations like knafeh blends. Tziga specializes in gourmet ice pops, or Tzigonim, with flavors such as pistachio-berry and peanut-butter-and-jelly, drawing enthusiasts from around Israel. Golda, a nationwide chain, also has branches in the city.

International cuisine

Alongside traditional Jerusalemite cuisine, an increasing number of restaurants in Jerusalem now offer international fare. Notable examples include the Austrian Hospice in the Old City, renowned for serving Austrian specialties like veal schnitzel and apple strudel. In the Jewish Quarter, a Korean restaurant offers Korean dishes such as bibimbap, gimbap, tteokbokki, japchae and kimchi. In the Mahane Yehuda Market, new restaurants have emerged offering a variety of kosher-certified international cuisines, including Georgian, Lebanese, American, South American, and more.

Events and festivals

In 1992, the Tower of David museum held an innovative food exhibition named Ta-Arucha, curated by renowned food writer Sherry Ansky. Around 2021, the Tower of David initiated "Eating in Jerusalem," an interdisciplinary historical culinary project which includes a weekly newsletter, stories and recipes shared via WhatsApp, a blog featuring scholarly articles on local ingredients, and in-person food tours in the Old City and Mahane Yehuda Market.

In the 2010s and 2020s, the Jerusalem Food Truck Festival became a prominent summer event. The festival, held during July and August nights, features food trucks where top chefs from esteemed city restaurants prepared dishes. Alongside culinary offerings, the festival also includes shows and light exhibitions. Originally held at Ben Hinnom Valley Park, in 2024 the venue was relocated to Armon HaNatsiv park.

Gallery

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  Jerusalem bagels, challahs and za'atar pitas sold at the Mahane Yehuda Market
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  Maaruk, a date-stuffed bread sold in a food stall at the Old City
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  Sufganiyot, jelly-doughnuts eaten in the Jewish holiday of Hannukah, sold in the Jewish Quarter
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  Potato-filled bourekas
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  Rugelach and other sweet pastries
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  Halva of various tastes, including chocolate, rum and raisins, bamba, and coffee beans
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  Dry fruits
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  Knafeh and awameh sold in the Muslim Quarter
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  Knafeh trays being prepared alongside malabi, Mahane Yehuda Market
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  Pomegranates, mangos and bananas