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Lead climbing at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Lead climbing
at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Villars, Switzerland

Chamonix, France
Briançon, France
Arco, Italy
Kranj, Slovenia
Wujiang, China

Xiamen, China
Dates6 July – 28 October 2018
Champions
MenAustria Jakob Schubert
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret

Lead climbing competitions at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup were held at seven locations, from 6 July to 28 October 2018. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Jakob Schubert won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Austria won the national team title.

Overall ranking

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An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

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6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for the IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[1]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briançon Chamonix Villars
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 495.00 16. (20.00) 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00
2 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 466.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 5. (51.00) 1. 100.00 4. 55.00
3 France Romain Desgranges 356.00 6. 47.00 1. 100.00 20. 12.00 9. 37.00 2. 80.00 27. (4.00) 2. 80.00
3 Slovenia Domen Škofic 356.00 1. 100.00 19. (14.00) 12. 28.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00
5 South Korea Hyunbin Min 251.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 - 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 18. 16.00 6. 47.00
6 Germany Alexander Megos 230.00 - - - 12. 28.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00
7 Japan Taisei Homma 217.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 - 9. 37.00 7. 43.00 16. 20.00
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 206.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 25. (6.00) 6. 47.00 7. 43.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00
9 Japan Yuki Hada 192.00 7. 43.00 20. (12.00) 7. 43.00 14. 24.00 12. 28.00 19. 14.00 8. 40.00
10 Italy Francesco Vettorata 168.00 15. 22.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 22. 9.00 20. 12.00 11. 31.00 -

Women

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6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for the IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[2]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briançon Chamonix Villars
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 550.00 2. 80.00 1. 90.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00
2 Austria Jessica Pilz 505.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. (55.00) 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
3 South Korea Jain Kim 354.00 10. 34.00 1. 90.00 1. 100.00 - - 3. 65.00 3. 65.00
4 France Manon Hily 238.00 14. (24.00) 8. 40.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00
5 Japan Mei Kotake 228.00 5. 51.00 13. 26.00 9. 37.00 16. 20.00 - 5. 51.00 7. 43.00
6 Slovenia Tjasa Kalan 224.00 7. 43.00 6. 45.00 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00 9. 34.00
7 Austria Hannah Schubert 219.00 11. 31.00 9. 37.00 3. 65.00 19. (14.00) 13. 26.00 8. 40.00 16. 20.00
8 Slovenia Mina Markovič 214.00 6. 47.00 22. (9.00) 8. 40.00 10. 34.00 5. 51.00 12. 28.00 19. 14.00
8 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 214.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 - - - 7. 43.00 5. 51.00
10 Slovenia Mia Krampl 211.00 4. 55.00 6. 45.00 10. 34.00 - 7. 43.00 21. 10.00 14. 24.00

National Teams

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For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[3]

Rank Nation Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briançon Chamonix Villars
1 Austria Austria 1528 230 269 264 250 (218) 232 283
2 Japan 1468 305 246 242 160 (135) 235 280
3 Slovenia Slovenia 1428 282 194 (182) 238 266 210 238
4  France 959 95 160 (81) 185 251 84 184
5 Italy Italy 822 118 135 202 111 99 157 (55)
6 South Korea Republic of Korea 652 107 177 107 41 (27) 91 129
7 Belgium Belgium 382 80 55 (22) 105 65 47 30
8  United States 377 15 13 (0) 108 89 105 47
9 Switzerland Suisse 373 40 (18) 67 78 49 71 68
10 Germany 340 - - 23 45 100 111 61

Villars, Switzerland (6-7 July)

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Men

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91 athletes attended the World Cup in Villars.[4]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 38+ 100
2 France Romain Desgranges 38+ 80
3 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 33+ 65
4 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 33+ 55
5 Austria Max Rudigier 32+ 51
6 South Korea Hyunbin Min 22+ 47
7 Slovenia Domen Škofic 22+ 43
8 Japan Yuki Hada 22+ 40

Women

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64 athletes attended the World Cup in Villars.[5]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 44+ 100
2 Austria Jessica Pilz 42 80
3 South Korea Jain Kim 41+ 65
4 France Manon Hily 36+ 55
5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 35+ 51
6 Japan Miho Nonaka 32+ 47
7 Japan Mei Kotake 31+ 43
8 United States Ashima Shiraishi 31+ 40

Chamonix, France (11-13 July)

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Men

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111 athletes attended the World Cup in Chamonix.[6]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Top 100
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 48+ 80
3 Germany Alex Megos 46+ 65
4 Slovenia Domen Škofic 46+ 55
5 United Kingdom William Bosi 43+ 51
6 Japan Shuta Tanaka 43+ 47
7 Japan Taisei Homma 40+ 43
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 30+ 40

Women

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92 athletes attended the World Cup in Chamonix.[7]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Austria Jessica Pilz Top 100
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 50+ 80
3 South Korea Jain Kim 48+ 65
4 United States Ashima Shiraishi 44 55
5 Japan Mei Kotake 42+ 51
6 Belgium Anak Verhoeven 41 47
7 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 40+ 43
8 Austria Hannah Schubert 40+ 40

Briançon, France (20-21 July)

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Men

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84 athletes attended the World Cup in Briançon.[8]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Germany Alex Megos 45+ 100
2 France Romain Desgranges 43 80
3 Slovenia Domen Škofic 42+ 65
4 Austria Jakob Schubert 42+ 55
5 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 41+ 51
6 France Thomas Joannes 34+ 47
7 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 32 43
8 Japan Hiroto Shimizu 28+ 40

Women

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66 athletes attended the World Cup in Briançon.[9]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Top 100
2 Austria Jessica Pilz Top 80
3 Belgium Anak Verhoeven 46+ 65
4 United States Ashima Shiraishi 39+ 55
5 Slovenia Mina Markovič 39+ 51
6 Slovenia Vita Lukan 33+ 47
7 Slovenia Mia Krampl 33+ 43
8 France Nolwenn Arc 33+ 40

Arco, Italy (27-28 July)

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Men

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95 athletes attended the World Cup in Arco.[10]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 44+ 100
2 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 41+ 80
3 Slovenia Domen Škofic 41 65
4 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 41 55
5 Japan Shuta Tanaka 40+ 51
6 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 38+ 47
7 Spain Alberto Ginés López 32+ 43
8 South Korea Hyunbin Min 23+ 40

Women

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76 athletes attended the World Cup in Arco.[11]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 50+ 100
2 Austria Jessica Pilz 49+ 80
3 Belgium Anak Verhoeven 39+ 65
4 United States Claire Buhrfeind 33+ 55
5 France Hélène Janicot 31 51
6 France Manon Hily 28 47
7 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 28 43
8 Austria Christine Schranz 9 40

Kranj, Slovenia (29-30 September)

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Men

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61 athletes attended the World Cup in Kranj.[12]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Top 100
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 49+ 80
3 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 43+ 65
4 Italy Marcello Bombardi 43+ 55
5 Canada Sean McColl 40+ 51
6 Italy Francesco Vettorata 36 47
7 Japan Yuki Hada 28+ 43
8 Japan Kokoro Fujii 28 40

Women

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47 athletes attended the World Cup in Kranj.[13]

Rank Name Score Points
1 South Korea Jain Kim 41 100
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 34+ 80
3 Austria Hannah Schubert 34+ 65
4 Austria Jessica Pilz 30 55
5 Austria Katharina Posch 27+ 51
6 Japan Natsumi Hirano 13+ 47
7 Switzerland Katherine Choong 13+ 43
8 Slovenia Mina Markovič 13+ 40

Wujiang, China (20-21 October)

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The Lead World Cup finals at Wujiang were cancelled because of bad weather. The women's final was being carried out when it started to rain and made the last few climbers slip off of wet holds. After many considerations and an appeal from the athlete's side, the finals for women and men (which had not been carried out) were cancelled. The winners of the event were then determined based on the results of the semifinals.[14][15][16]

Men

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34 athletes attended the World Cup in Wujiang.[17] The finals were cancelled, and the results of the previous round (semi-finals) counted as the final ranking.[18]

Rank Name Score Points
1 France Romain Desgranges 35+ 100
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 32+ 80
3 South Korea Hyunbin Min 32 65
4 Japan Hidemasa Nishida 31+ 55
5 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 28+ 51
6 Italy Francesco Vettorata 28+ 47
7 Ukraine Fedir Samoilov 28 43
8 Japan Taisei Homma 26+ 40

Women

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35 athletes attended the World Cup in Wujiang.[19] The finals were cancelled, and the results of the previous round (semi-finals) counted as the final ranking.[18]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 36+ 90
1 South Korea Jain Kim 36+ 90
3 Austria Jessica Pilz 36 65
4 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 35+ 55
5 Austria Katharina Posch 31 51
6 Slovenia Tjasa Kalan 22+ 45
6 Slovenia Mia Krampl 22+ 45
8 France Manon Hily 22+ 40

Xiamen, China (27-28 October)

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Men

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32 athletes attended the World Cup in Xiamen.[20]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Domen Škofic 45+ 100
2 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 45+ 80
3 South Korea Hyunbin Min 38+ 65
4 Japan Hidemasa Nishida 23 55
5 Japan Taisei Homma 20+ 51
6 France Romain Desgranges 20+ 47
7 Japan Yuki Hada 20+ 43
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 20+ 40

Women

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35 athletes attended the World Cup in Xiamen.[21]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Austria Jessica Pilz Top 100
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Top 80
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 43+ 65
4 Slovenia Mia Krampl 37+ 55
5 Japan Mei Kotake 36+ 51
6 Slovenia Mina Markovič 35 47
7 Slovenia Tjasa Kalan 32 43
8 Japan Aika Tajima 30+ 40

References

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  1. ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  2. ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking".
  4. ^ "IFSC Villars Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  5. ^ "IFSC Villars Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".
  6. ^ "IFSC Chamonix Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  7. ^ "IFSC Chamonix Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".
  8. ^ "IFSC Briancon Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  9. ^ "IFSC Briancon Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".
  10. ^ "IFSC Arco Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  11. ^ "IFSC Arco Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".
  12. ^ "IFSC Kranj Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  13. ^ "IFSC Kranj Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".
  14. ^ "Finals cancelled in Wujiang".
  15. ^ "Wujiang Finals Cancelled, Canada in Semis".
  16. ^ "Washout at the Wujiang World Cup".
  17. ^ "IFSC Wujiang Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  18. ^ a b "Wujiang Lead Finals Cancelled".
  19. ^ "IFSC Wujiang Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".
  20. ^ "IFSC Xiamen Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men Results".
  21. ^ "IFSC Xiamen Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women Results".