Qun

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Qun
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A style of Han Chinese qun, Qing dynasty, 19th century, from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Chinese name
Chinese裙
Literal meaningSkirt
Chang
Chinese裳
English name
EnglishApron

Qun (Chinese: 裙; pinyin: qún; Jyutping: kwan4; lit. 'skirt'), referred as chang (Chinese: 裳; pinyin: cháng) prior to the Han dynasty,[1] chang (Chinese: 常) and xiachang (Chinese: 下常),[2] and sometimes referred as an apron,[3] is a generic term which refers to the Chinese skirts used in Hanfu, especially those worn as part of ruqun, and in Xifu. The qun and its predecessor, the chang, along with the upper garment called yi and the trousers called ku, are all indigenous clothing of the Zhongyuan, which conformed to the fashion style of the Chinese civilization in ancient times.[4] Both the qun and the chang, were both typically in the form of a wrap-around skirt like an apron.[4] However, throughout Chinese history, the chang eventually evolved into the qun;[4] and the qun evolved in diverse shapes, styles, and construction throughout the succeeding dynasties.[5]: 144  The qun continued to exist even in the Republic of China.[6] Several forms of ancient-style qun regained popularity in the 21st century following the Hanfu movement; this also inspired the development of new styles of qun with modern aesthetics and shapes.[7]

Terminology[edit]

In a broad sense, the Chinese character qun《裙》is a synonym for the word qunzi (裙子; qúnzi); both of these are generic words for skirts in China.

In ancient China, the Chinese character chang《裳》can refer to "lower garments," which included both the trousers called ku and the qun skirt also called chang which also use the same character《裳》. The term qun with the Chinese character《帬》also referred to skirt .[8] According to the Fangyan, the qun《帬》was called pei《帔》in the area of Wei and Chen; it was also called bai《襬》by some people from the east of the Pass.[8][9] The Shuowen jiezi also explains that the term qun which uses the character《帬》is the same as the term xiachang which uses the characters《下常 》.[10] It also explains that the chang, which uses the Chinese character《常》, is a skirt by using the term xiaqun with the characters《下帬 》.[11]: 203 [12]

There are also specific terms which are related to the qun, such as chenqun (Chinese: 衬裙; lit. 'inner skirt / petticoat') and danqun. The danqun is a generic term which refers to unlined skirts.[13]: 36  The chenqun is a generic term which typically refer to a form of inner skirt.

History[edit]

Main article: Hanfu

In the ancient times, the qun was referred as chang and existed even prior to the creation of the trousers called ku.[4] The chang appeared on unearthed artifacts dating as early as the Shang dynasty; the chang eventually evolved into what became known as the qun.[4]

Warring states period and Qin dynasty[edit]

In the Warring States period, men could also wear short skirts similar to a kilt.[14]: 166 

Han dynasty[edit]

Several wrap-over qun were found in the Han dynasty tombs.[5]: 144  The zhejianqun (Chinese: 褶裥裙; pinyin: zhějiǎnqúnqún; lit. 'pleated skirt') first appeared in the Eastern Han dynasty.[1] According to the story, however, the wearing of short skirts with pleats first appeared in the Western Han dynasty when Feng Wufang saved Zhao Feiyan from falling; but while saving her, her skirt had been ripped.[15]: 165  This led to the creation of a long excessively pleated-style zhejianqun, called liuxianqun, which was inspired by the ripped skirt of Zhao Feiyan and became popular.[16]

Song dynasty[edit]

After the Sui and Tang dynasty, the pleats which were used in the zhejianqun increased in numbers, from a few dozens to over one hundred forming the baizhequn.[1] The tomb of Huang Sheng contains various forms of qun, such as the liangpianqun and the baizhequn.[17]: 121 

Yuan dynasty[edit]

The baizhequn continued to be worn in the Yuan dynasty.[1]

Qing dynasty[edit]

The qun continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty.[6] In this period, the qun worn by the Han Chinese were often mamianqun which featured pleats and embroideries at the panels and decorative borders.[5]: 144  The late Qing dynasty qun were also heavier compared to those worn in the earlier times as they were weighted by the embroideries and pleats.[5]: 144 

Republic of China[edit]

During the early period of the Republic of China, people in Beijing continued to wear the clothing worn in the Qing dynasty.[6] Women continued to wear the qun; however, the qun had evolved in style and had become shorter.[6]

Types and styles in Hanfu[edit]

The qun can also have specific names based on the styles, design and constructions, the number of pleats and colours. In Hanfu, the qun can be used in set of attire, such as the ruqun, qungua, xiuhefu. In some dynasties, the qun could be found very long and was tied under the armpits either below or above the bust regions;[5]: 144  for example, in the qixiong ruqun. In other dynasties, the qun could be tied at the waist level.[1]

Poqun[edit]

Poqun (Chinese: 破裙; lit. 'broken skirt') are a form of qun which are made out of several panel of fabric sewn together instead of using a single piece of cloth,[7] similar to a gore skirt.

Danqun and chenqun[edit]

See also: Maweiqun
A four-panel danqun made of thin silk, Mawangdui tomb No.1, Western Han dynasty

In the Qin and Han dynasties, the danqun were made out of four panel of fabrics which were sewn together.[13]: 36  The upper parts were narrower than the lower parts; and there were also two pieces in the middle were also narrower than those which were found at the sides of the danqun.[13]: 36  It was most often found with a belt attached to it; however some women preferred to use a separate belt.[13]: 36 

The four-panel poqun, as the one found in the Mawangdui tomb No.1 dating from the Western Han dynasty, was used as a form of chenqun (衬裙) and was usually worn over the zhijupao or under the qujupao.[2] This form of poqun also had a waist belt which was sewed at the upper part of the skirt and both ends of the waist belt would extend to form the ties.[18]

Jiansequn[edit]

Jiansequn (Chinese: 間色裙; lit. 'inter-coloured skirt') are a form of poqun made of alternative strips of fabric of two different colours sewn together.[19]: 289  Its structure can be traced back to the late Northern Wei dynasty and continued to be used until the Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period.[20] This form of skirt was high-waist during the Sui and the Tang dynasties and were characteristics clothing for women during this time period.[20] The evolution process of the Jiansequn reflects the multiculturalism context, the cultural exchange, and the cultural integration which occurred between the Han Chinese, the northern ethnic minority culture, and the culture of the Western regions which occurred from the late Northern Wei dynasty to the Sui and Tang dynasties.[20] The design of the skirt thus reflects the gradual integration of Hanfu and Hufu.[20]

  • Various forms of Jiansequn
  • A waist-length Jiansequn, former Qin
  • A floor-length jiansequn tied above the bust-level, Tang dynasty.

Zhejianqun[edit]

Zhejianqun made of gauze, Southern Song dynasty.

Pleated skirts are called zhejianqun (Chinese: 褶裥裙; pinyin: zhějiǎnqúnqún; lit. 'pleated skirt').[1][21] There are several forms of zhejianqun, such as the baizhequn (Chinese: 百褶裙),[21] and the baidiequn.

  • Zhejianqun used in qungua
  • Zhejianqun used in qungua, c.1928
  • Zhejianqun used in qungua is closed with a zipper, c.1928

Baizhequn[edit]

Baizhequn is a form of wrap-around skirt which was tied at the waist level; it consisted of over 100 pleats in numbers.[1] Each pleats were fixed to the waistband of the skirt and each pleats had the same width.[1]

Mamianqun and its variant[edit]

Main article: Mamianqun

The mamianqun was a wrap-around skirt composed of two overlapping panels of fabric which was tied at the waist level. It was characterized with a flat front and pleats on the two sides. The yulinqun (lit. 'fish-scale skirt'[3]) was a variant of the mamianqun and featured small pleats which gave a ripple effects.[5]: 144  The early prototypes of the mamianqun was the baidiequn and the liangpianqun. A derivative of the mamianqun is the skirt used in the Xiuhefu, which is also called mamianqun.[note 1]

  • Various styles of mamianqun and its derivatives
  • Standard mamianqun, Qing dynasty
  • Yulinqun, Qing dynasty, late 19th century
  • Yulin baizhequn, Qing dynasty
  • Yuehuaqun (月華裙)
  • Langanqun
  • Mamianqun used in the Xiuhefu, a derivative of the Qing dynasty mamianqun.
    Mamianqun used in the Xiuhefu, a derivative of the Qing dynasty mamianqun.
Mangchu[edit]
Main articles: Traditional Chinese wedding dress and Mangfu
Mangchu with mang (front view)
Mangchu with mang (side view)
Mangchu with Chinese dragons
Mangchu, Qing dynasty

The mangchu skirt, sometimes literally translated as "Dragon skirt" in English, was a skirt decorated with Chinese dragons and/or Chinese phoenixes or with mang (lit. 'python').[22] The mangchu could typically vary in colour; however, red and green were the most common colours used. The mangchu was typically paired with the mangao jacket.[22]

During the Qing dynasty, the mangchu was worn by Han Chinese women; it was typically worn by the wives of Chinese noblemen or wives of high-ranking Qing officials as part of their quasi-official formal clothing attire on ceremonial occasions when their husband would be wearing the Qing dynasty court robe attire.[22] Wives of the Qing dynasty officials also wore the mangchu as part of their wedding attire and as their burial attire.[22]

Shiliqun[edit]

The shiliqun (Chinese: 石榴裙; lit. 'pomegranate red') was a red skirt which was especially popular in the Tang dynasty.

  • Shiliuqun (石榴裙)

Imperial and court attire[edit]

  • Various form of qun used in imperial and court attire

Types and styles in Xifu[edit]

Zhejianqun used in xifu, Qing dynasty, 18th century

The qun was also used as a costume item in xifu. There are several forms of qun which are used as xifu by performing Chinese opera actors, which include the:

  • Huadanqun (lit. 'flower female skirt')[23]: 34  is worn with an ao by a huadan.[23]: 293 
  • Tongqun (lit. 'tube skirt'): a skirt which has the shape of a tube; it is often worn as outer-skirt being worn over an inner skirt, which could be pleated skirt.[23]: 293 

Similar forms[edit]

  • Chima – Korean equivalent

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ See page Xiuhefu for references and detailed explanation

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h "Smoke-colored lined pleated skirt of thin gauze". Hunan Museum. 2022. Retrieved 2022-06-23.
  2. ^ a b "Juanqun" 绢裙. Hunan Museum (in Chinese). 2022. Retrieved 2022-06-23.
  3. ^ a b "Skirt (China)". Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. Retrieved 2022-06-22.
  4. ^ a b c d e Xu, Rui; Sparks, Diane (2011-01-01). "Symbolism and Evolution of Ku-form in Chinese Costume". Research Journal of Textile and Apparel. 15 (1): 11–21. doi:10.1108/RJTA-15-01-2011-B002. ISSN 1560-6074.
  5. ^ a b c d e f Dusenberry, Mary M. (2004). Flowers, dragons and pine trees : Asian textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art. Carol Bier, Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art (1st ed.). New York: Hudson Hills Press. ISBN 1-55595-238-0. OCLC 55016186.
  6. ^ a b c d "Traditional Beijing Costumes". en.chinaculture.org. 2008. pp. 2–3. Retrieved 2022-06-20.
  7. ^ a b "How to Choose a Slim Hanfu? - 2022". www.newhanfu.com. 2020-03-17. Retrieved 2022-06-24.
  8. ^ a b Cheung, Kam-Siu (2016-04-14). "30. Lexicography". In Chan, Sin-Wai (ed.). The Routledge Encyclopedia of the Chinese Language. Taylor & Francis. doi:10.4324/9781315675541. ISBN 9781317382492.
  9. ^ "Fang Yan :《第四》". ctext.org (in Chinese (Taiwan)). Retrieved 2022-06-24.
  10. ^ "Shuo Wen Jie Zi : 卷八 : 巾部". ctext.org (in Chinese (Taiwan)). Retrieved 2022-06-24.
  11. ^ Carr, David; Cheung, Chan-Fai (18 October 2004). Space, Time, and Culture. Canhui Zhang, Chan-Fai Cheung, David Carr. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands. ISBN 9781402028236. OCLC 853261045.
  12. ^ Michael, Thomas (2021). Philosophical Enactment and Bodily Cultivation in Early Daoism In the Matrix of the Daodejing. Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN 9781350236677.
  13. ^ a b c d Zang, Yingchun; 臧迎春. (2003). Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi 中国传统服饰 [Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments]. 李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. (Di 1 ban ed.). Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she [五洲传播出版社]. ISBN 7-5085-0279-5. OCLC 55895164.
  14. ^ Xu, Zhuoyun (2012). China : a new cultural history. Timothy Danforth Baker, Michael S. Duke. New York: Columbia University Press. ISBN 978-0-231-15920-3. OCLC 730906510.
  15. ^ Milburn, Olivia (2021). The Empress in the Pepper Chamber Zhao Feiyan in History and Fiction. Seattle: University of Washington Press. ISBN 9780295748764. OCLC 1238129666.
  16. ^ Yao, Ping (2022). Women, gender and sexuality in China : a brief history (First ed.). Abingdon, Oxon. ISBN 978-1-315-62726-7. OCLC 1273727859.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  17. ^ 5000 years of Chinese costumes. Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu. San Francisco, CA: China Books & Periodicals. 1987. ISBN 0-8351-1822-3. OCLC 19814728.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  18. ^ "Thin silk skirt". Hunan Museum. Retrieved 2022-06-24.
  19. ^ China : dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD. James C. Y. Watt, Prudence Oliver Harper, Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. 2004. ISBN 1-58839-126-4. OCLC 55846475.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  20. ^ a b c d Shi, Meihua (2018). "窄袖高腰间色裙源流考--《陕西师范大学》2018年硕士论文". cdmd.cnki.com.cn. 陕西师范大学. Retrieved 2022-08-18.
  21. ^ a b "Yanse chanzhihehualuo zhejianqun" 烟色缠枝荷花罗褶裥裙 [Smoke-colored lined pleated skirt of thin gauze]. Hunan Museum (in Chinese). 2022. Retrieved 2022-06-23.
  22. ^ a b c d Garrett, Valery (2012). Chinese Dress : From the Qing Dynasty to the Present. New York: Tuttle Pub. ISBN 978-1-4629-0694-9. OCLC 794664023.
  23. ^ a b c Ye, Tan (2020). Historical dictionary of Chinese theater (Second ed.). Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. ISBN 978-1-5381-2064-4. OCLC 1128888776.
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