User:LiangJTG/sandbox
Airy's Theory and Wave Breaking
[edit]To understand the unsteep wave's speed as a function of its property in shallow water, a simplified Airy's dispersion relation is often used. By assuming that wavelength (λ) is much greater than (usually >20 times) the water depth (h), which is a reasonable assumption for shallow water near shore, the Airy's dispersion relation gives the following relation between celerity of the wave and water depth:
From the relation, the celerity decreases as the wave approaches the shore where water becomes shallow. This implies a compiling effect onto the slowing down frontal wave by the wave behind. As this compilation generates more wave steepness and the shore water gets shallower, the Airy's wave theory breaks down at very near shore. Here, the steepness metric of a wave can be measured by the ratio of the wave's maximum amlitude (η) to the wavelength (λ). Depending on the bed slope near shore and the wave's steepness, the wave could break into several general categories of forms near shore.
This is a user sandbox of LiangJTG. You can use it for testing or practicing edits. This is not the sandbox where you should draft your assigned article for a dashboard.wikiedu.org course. To find the right sandbox for your assignment, visit your Dashboard course page and follow the Sandbox Draft link for your assigned article in the My Articles section. |