User:VenerableBird/Androgyny in fashion

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1760s-90s[edit]

Macaroni was a term used to refer to a group of young, urban English men in the 1760s-1770s who adopted ostentatious, effeminate dress. [1] The style Macaronis adopted were more similar to the fashions of France and Italy, "retaining pastel color, pattern and ornament, at a time when their use was being displaced by more sober dressing in England." [1] Their gender and sexuality were often called into question and was subject to much fascination and scrutiny [1]

The Victorian Era (1840s-1890s)[edit]

Women's cycling suit advertisement, 1897

In the Victorian era, many upper-class women adopted more masculine styled fashion for sports, which was a source of great anxiety, some believing this supposed "masculinization" of women would lead to "the "degeneration" of the genders". [2] Cycling suits, for example, kept the feminine silhouette but incorporated masculine elements, like waistcoats, neckties and bifurcated skirts.

The Early 1900s[edit]

Androgynous dress in young children was the norm for much of the Victorian and Edwardian periods, sex differentiation in clothing was postponed until children entered school at about six or seven years old[3]. Major fashion designers, like Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel introduced a feminine variation on trousers to women's fashion, in line with the Flapper style for women of this era, which was considered "boyish" and gave women an androgynous look. During the 1930s, the masculine lean of female fashion continued, with women's fashion allowing for the wearing of suits.[4] This trend can be exemplified by celebrity Marlene Dietrich. Dietrich dressed masculinely and femininely, demonstrating great fluidity in gendered presentation, doing so called "double-drag."[5] Dietrich is remembered as one of the first actresses to wear trousers in a premiere.[6]

Outside the world of high fashion, working women of this era sometimes wore masculine-style bib overalls for factory or manual labor.[7] Many working women kept their feminine presentation, however, and were not impeded by their clothing, largely those working white-collar level jobs.[7] Sportswear of the 20s and 30s became more masculine, after significant issue through the previous two decades[8], reflecting general trends, and following in the footsteps of previous generations.

Queer people of this era were often consciously gender non-conforming, for example, sailor suits were adopted by both queer men and women due to the "military exoticism and gender-blurring possibilities" becoming "a recognizable signifier of an emerging gay and bisexual identity" [9]

Bibliography[edit]

  • Paoletti, Jo B. (1983-01-01). "Clothes Make the Boy, 1860–1910". Dress. 9 (1): 16–20. doi:10.1179/036121183803657763. ISSN 0361-2112.[3]
  • Chapin, Chloe (2022-01-02). "Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion". Dress. 48 (1): 111–113. doi:10.1080/03612112.2022.2029023. ISSN 0361-2112.[10]
  • Herold-Zanker, Katharina (2022-10-13). "British Dandies: Engendering Scandal and Fashioning a Nation: by Dominic Janes (Oxford: Bodleian Library, 2022)". Fashion Theory: 1–6. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2132020. ISSN 1362-704X.[11]
  • Fisher, Harriet (2015-01-19). "The Queen of Androgyny – Marlene Dietrich". Barnebys. Archived from the original on 2016-06-16. Retrieved 2016-05-22.[6]
  • Strawn, Susan; Farrell-Beck, Jane; Hemken, Ann R. (2005-01-01). "Bib Overalls: Function and Fashion". Dress. 32 (1): 43–55. doi:10.1179/036121105805253107. ISSN 0361-2112.[7]
  • Vänskä, Annamari (2014-09-01). "From Gay to Queer—Or, Wasn't Fashion Always Already a Very Queer Thing?". Fashion Theory. 18 (4): 447–463.[12]
  • Stephenson, Andrew (2016-03-01). "'Our jolly marin wear': The queer fashionability of the sailor uniform in interwar France and Britain". Fashion, Style & Popular Culture. 3 (2): 157–172. doi:10.1386/fspc.3.2.157_1. ISSN 2050-0726.[9]
  • Whiteneir, Kevin (2016-07-02). "The Purple Prince". Dress. 42 (2): 75–88. doi:10.1080/03612112.2016.1215804. ISSN 0361-2112.[13]
  • Warner, Patricia Campbell (1997-01-01). "Clothing as Barrier: American Women in the Olympics, 1900–1920". Dress. 24 (1): 55–68. doi:10.1179/036121197805298026. ISSN 0361-2112.[8]
  • Reddy-Best, Kelly L.; Streck, Kyra; Farley Gordon, Jennifer (2022-01-02). "Visibly Queer- and Trans-Fashion Brands and Retailers in the Twenty-First Century". Dress. 48 (1): 33–53. doi:10.1080/03612112.2021.1967606. ISSN 0361-2112.[14]
  • Kaiser, Susan B.; Lennon, Sharon J.; Damhorst, Mary Lynn (1991-01-01). "FORUM: Gendered Appearances in Twentieth-Century Popular Media". Dress. 18 (1): 49–77. doi:10.1179/036121191803657160. ISSN 0361-2112.[15]
  • Marcketti, Sara B; Angstman, Emily Thomsen (2013-10-01). "The Trend for Mannish Suits in the 1930s". Dress. 39 (2): 135–152. doi:10.1179/0361211213Z.00000000020. ISSN 0361-2112.[4]
  • Kennison, Rebecca (2002-10-04). "Clothes Make the (Wo)man". Journal of Lesbian Studies. 6 (2): 147–156. doi:10.1300/J155v06n02_19. ISSN 1089-4160. PMID 24807670.[5]
  • Rifkin, Lori (2002-10-04). "The Suit Suits Whom?". Journal of Lesbian Studies. 6 (2): 157–174. doi:10.1300/J155v06n02_20. ISSN 1089-4160. PMID 24807671.[16]
  • Dozier, Raine (2019-07-29). ""You Look Like a Dude, Dude": Masculine Females Undoing Gender in the Workplace". Journal of Homosexuality. 66 (9): 1219–1237. doi:10.1080/00918369.2018.1500778. ISSN 0091-8369. PMID 30052169.[17]
  • Lau, Charlene K. (2020-01-02). "Taste and Transgression: Gender and Sexuality in the Contemporary Avant–Garde Fashion of Bernhard Willhelm". Fashion Theory. 24 (1): 5–31. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2018.1466956. ISSN 1362-704X.[18]
  • McNeil, Peter (1999-11-01). ""That Doubtful Gender": Macaroni Dress and Male Sexualities". Fashion Theory. 3 (4): 411–447. doi:10.2752/136270499779476081. ISSN 1362-704X.[1]
  • Vinken, Barbara (1999-02-01). "Transvesty—Travesty: Fashion and Gender". Fashion Theory. 3 (1): 33–49. doi:10.2752/136270499779165617. ISSN 1362-704X.[19]
  • Mamp, Michael (2021-07-03). "Fashioning a "Male Actress"". Dress. 47 (2): 121–137. doi:10.1080/03612112.2021.1932113. ISSN 0361-2112.[20]
  • Reddy-Best, Kelly L. (2016-01-02). "A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk". Dress. 42 (1): 61–63. doi:10.1080/03612112.2016.1151671. ISSN 0361-2112.[21]
  • Krischer, Hayley (2019-08-14). "Beyond Androgyny: Nonbinary Teenage Fashion". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-11-10.[22]
  • Afanador, Ruben; Binkley, Christina (November 20, 2019). "The rise of nonbinary fashion: A photo essay". Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-11-10.[23]
  • Ho, Michelle, From dansō to genderless: mediating queer styles and androgynous bodies in Japan[24]
  • "Young Filipino fashion designer Ellis Co unveils 'Memoirs of the Future' collection". Manila Bulletin. 2022-08-04. Retrieved 2022-11-10. [25]
  • Fessler, Leah (2021-06-25). "His, Hers, Everyone's: Gender-Equal Underwear Goes (Slightly More) Mainstream". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-11-10.[26]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d McNeil, Peter (1999-11-01). ""That Doubtful Gender": Macaroni Dress and Male Sexualities". Fashion Theory. 3 (4): 412. doi:10.2752/136270499779476081. ISSN 1362-704X. The macaronies upset preconceptions both of gender—"a Macaroni renders his sex dubious by the extravagance of his appearance" (Town and Country 1772: 243)—and of sexuality. Many eighteenth-century texts, verbal and visual, responded to the macaroni stereotype with a sexual frankness that was only obliquely observed by nineteenth- and early twentieth-century historians of the caricature, and has been generally ignored by late twentieth-century historians.
  2. ^ Tracy, J. R. Collins (2010). "Athletic Fashion, "Punch", and the Creation of the New Woman". Victorian Periodicals Review. 43 (3): 309–335 – via JSTOR.
  3. ^ a b Paoletti, Jo B. (1983-01-01). "Clothes Make the Boy, 1860–1910". Dress. 9 (1): 16–20. doi:10.1179/036121183803657763. ISSN 0361-2112.
  4. ^ a b Marcketti, Sara B; Angstman, Emily Thomsen (2013-10-01). "The Trend for Mannish Suits in the 1930s". Dress. 39 (2): 135–152. doi:10.1179/0361211213Z.00000000020. ISSN 0361-2112.
  5. ^ a b Kennison, Rebecca (2002-10-04). "Clothes Make the (Wo)man". Journal of Lesbian Studies. 6 (2): 147–156. doi:10.1300/J155v06n02_19. ISSN 1089-4160. PMID 24807670.
  6. ^ a b Fisher, Harriet (2015-01-19). "The Queen of Androgyny – Marlene Dietrich". Barnebys. Archived from the original on 2016-06-16. Retrieved 2016-05-22.. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |access-date= (help)
  7. ^ a b c Strawn, Susan; Farrell-Beck, Jane; Hemken, Ann R. (2005-01-01). "Bib Overalls: Function and Fashion". Dress. 32 (1): 43–55. doi:10.1179/036121105805253107. ISSN 0361-2112.
  8. ^ a b Warner, Patricia Campbell (1997-01-01). "Clothing as Barrier: American Women in the Olympics, 1900–1920". Dress. 24 (1): 55–68. doi:10.1179/036121197805298026. ISSN 0361-2112.
  9. ^ a b Stephenson, Andrew (2016-03-01). "'Our jolly marin wear': The queer fashionability of the sailor uniform in interwar France and Britain". Fashion, Style & Popular Culture. 3 (2): 157–172. doi:10.1386/fspc.3.2.157_1. ISSN 2050-0726.
  10. ^ Chapin, Chloe (2022-01-02). "Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion". Dress. 48 (1): 111–113. doi:10.1080/03612112.2022.2029023. ISSN 0361-2112.
  11. ^ Herold-Zanker, Katharina (2022-10-13). "British Dandies: Engendering Scandal and Fashioning a Nation: by Dominic Janes (Oxford: Bodleian Library, 2022)". Fashion Theory: 1–6. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2132020. ISSN 1362-704X.
  12. ^ Vänskä, Annamari (2014-09-01). "From Gay to Queer—Or, Wasn't Fashion Always Already a Very Queer Thing?". Fashion Theory. 18 (4): 447–463. doi:10.2752/175174114X13996533400079. ISSN 1362-704X.
  13. ^ Whiteneir, Kevin (2016-07-02). "The Purple Prince". Dress. 42 (2): 75–88. doi:10.1080/03612112.2016.1215804. ISSN 0361-2112.
  14. ^ Reddy-Best, Kelly L.; Streck, Kyra; Farley Gordon, Jennifer (2022-01-02). "Visibly Queer- and Trans-Fashion Brands and Retailers in the Twenty-First Century". Dress. 48 (1): 33–53. doi:10.1080/03612112.2021.1967606. ISSN 0361-2112.
  15. ^ Kaiser, Susan B.; Lennon, Sharon J.; Damhorst, Mary Lynn (1991-01-01). "FORUM: Gendered Appearances in Twentieth-Century Popular Media". Dress. 18 (1): 49–77. doi:10.1179/036121191803657160. ISSN 0361-2112.
  16. ^ Rifkin, Lori (2002-10-04). "The Suit Suits Whom?". Journal of Lesbian Studies. 6 (2): 157–174. doi:10.1300/J155v06n02_20. ISSN 1089-4160. PMID 24807671.
  17. ^ Dozier, Raine (2019-07-29). ""You Look Like a Dude, Dude": Masculine Females Undoing Gender in the Workplace". Journal of Homosexuality. 66 (9): 1219–1237. doi:10.1080/00918369.2018.1500778. ISSN 0091-8369. PMID 30052169.
  18. ^ Lau, Charlene K. (2020-01-02). "Taste and Transgression: Gender and Sexuality in the Contemporary Avant–Garde Fashion of Bernhard Willhelm". Fashion Theory. 24 (1): 5–31. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2018.1466956. ISSN 1362-704X.
  19. ^ Vinken, Barbara (1999-02-01). "Transvesty—Travesty: Fashion and Gender". Fashion Theory. 3 (1): 33–49. doi:10.2752/136270499779165617. ISSN 1362-704X.
  20. ^ Mamp, Michael (2021-07-03). "Fashioning a "Male Actress"". Dress. 47 (2): 121–137. doi:10.1080/03612112.2021.1932113. ISSN 0361-2112.
  21. ^ Reddy-Best, Kelly L. (2016-01-02). "A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk". Dress. 42 (1): 61–63. doi:10.1080/03612112.2016.1151671. ISSN 0361-2112.
  22. ^ Krischer, Hayley (2019-08-14). "Beyond Androgyny: Nonbinary Teenage Fashion". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-11-10.
  23. ^ Afanador, Ruben; Binkley, Christina (November 20, 2019). "The rise of nonbinary fashion: A photo essay". Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-11-10.
  24. ^ Ho, Michelle H. S. (2021-04-03). "From dansō to genderless: mediating queer styles and androgynous bodies in Japan". Inter-Asia Cultural Studies. 22 (2): 158–177. doi:10.1080/14649373.2021.1927555. ISSN 1464-9373.
  25. ^ "Young Filipino fashion designer Ellis Co unveils 'Memoirs of the Future' collection". Manila Bulletin. 2022-08-04. Retrieved 2022-11-10.
  26. ^ Fessler, Leah (2021-06-25). "His, Hers, Everyone's: Gender-Equal Underwear Goes (Slightly More) Mainstream". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-11-10.
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