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May 6[edit]

Multi-booting[edit]

How do you multi-boot Windows 7 on a computer which comes pre-installed with Windows 10? Would that allow me to bypass Windows 10's (reportedly) refusing to install/run old CD-ROM games? I have a lot of these oldies-but-goodies, and I don't want to lose them if I get a new computer! 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:4053:837:F948:BEBA (talk) 11:58, 6 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Ask for what you want (the ability to run old apps on Windows 10) instead of asking how to do something that you assume will do what you want (multi-booting). Example: "My car won't start. What is the best way to prevent ghosts from stealing my spark plugs?"

--Guy Macon (talk) 19:23, 6 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

In my case, I am not asking about compatibility mode (my apps are very platform-flexible, and one of my really old games is actually simple enough to be platform-independent, so this probably won't be an issue), but specifically about how to run them if they require a CD-ROM to start up (i.e. about how to bypass DRM protection which is (reportedly) built into Windows 10 specifically to prevent running of software from copy-protected CD-ROMs) -- will multi-booting do this? And if so, will running a Windows 7 (or Windows 8.1, or Windows XP, or Windows whatever) virtual machine achieve the same effect? 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:9917:26FA:20DC:A39E (talk) 02:09, 7 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

You will never get a good answer as long as you keep doing what the page at [ http://xyproblem.info/ ] describes.

Clearly you did not bother to read the pages I listed above (part of your ongoing XY problem), or you would have ran into the phrases "Run Games That Require SafeDisc and SecuROM DRM".

You are still deciding that you know what the solution is and instead of asking "how do I run old games" you are asking "how to bypass DVD DRM protection". A couple of the links you didn't bother to read addressed that very issue.

Here are some more links for you to ignore (provided because other users who do follow the links provided also read these answers):

--Guy Macon (talk) 03:39, 7 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

For the record, I have now read some of these pages (not all, because my hard drive is now in such bad shape that I have to reboot after loading any one of these) -- some of these pages answer my question (not all, because at least one has to do solely with compatibility mode and doesn't mention DRM at all), but this brings up other questions: (1) Besides multi-booting, running a virtual machine or (potentially unsafe and not always available) installing a NoCD patch, are there any other ways (legal or otherwise) to defeat DRM protection on Windows 10? (2) Which method of defeating DRM has the least negative impact on performance (preferably no impact at all)? (3) How can I actually go about doing it? 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:E90C:36C5:3CB3:11BF (talk) 02:32, 8 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Bypassing DRM is a legal grey area; technically it's not illegal (thought it might be a breach of contract), but one of the main purposes of DRM is to prevent illegal things being done (the other main purpose is to utterly ruin and render as useless as possible any software or data it's used on^{[citation needed]}). I actually strongly recommend you disable any DRM on any software you own for a variety of reasons, but I won't be posting links to "beat your DRM software" here because someone might object and, frankly, a simple google search should find plenty of ways. Trust Professor Google. He's very smart and he loves to answer your questions. ᛗᛁᛟᛚᚾᛁᚱPants Tell me all about it. 12:54, 8 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

So, can you at least describe the methods I can actually use to defeat the Windows 10 DRM protection features (besides the 3 methods I've listed above), and tell me which method has the least impact on performance? Keep in mind that I can't google much anymore, because my hard drive is slowly dying on me! 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:956:2437:3138:48B8 (talk) 06:41, 9 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

This is going to depend completely on the game and other factors. For example, a no CD patch from the developer of the game shouldn't be unsafe, and shouldn't cause performance issues. And of course, a tiny number of games let you add them to GOG or Steam (or other such platforms) if you have some sort of proof of purchase, and these versions may be updated so that you don't need to deal with that. Then there are those games with alternative engines that can be used on various OSes including Windows 10. And considering whatever option you choose, it can take a bit of effort depending on the game, some people may choose to purchase the game again if the price on GOG or Steam or Origin or Uplay wherever isn't silly (e.g. during sales) as frustrating as that is, if that version has better compatibility rather than spending 30 minutes of their possibility valuable time getting it to work.

In any case, since you're talking about ancient games, the performance difference between running with a no CD patch and running on a dual booted OS is irrelevant. (Actually the performance difference between these even with new games is likely to be irrelevant.) Even for running with a virtualised OS, the peformance will often be more than sufficient for anything. Really the bigger issue for all 3 is compatibility. Windows 10 has good compabitility, still with some really odd games running them on an older version of Windows may have less odd bugs. But sometimes it could be the opposite, particularly if your hardware is poorly supported on the old version of Windows. When it comes to games, virtualised OSes will often have worse compatibility especially since 3D virtualisation is still somewhat limited but again it's going to depend on the game.

In other words, this is too complicated a problem for there to be any clear cut answer. And finally, remember you are not defeating any Windows 10 DRM protecion features. You are simply trying to get games with ancient DRM protection systems which Windows 10 refuses to allow to run because they are trying to do potentially unsafe things, to work on Windows 10.

And you aren't trying to defeat the DRM of the games per se. For example, with an appropriate CD or DVD image and suitable image mounting software like Daemon Tools, you could run the games without the CD/DVD. This is a way to defeat the DRM, it should be no worse and in a few rare cases will be better than using the original CD/DVD. But it doesn't actually help you since your concern is to get the games running on Windows 10 where the DRM drivers aren't supported. (Heck if space is a concern for some reason, for games that old you probably don't even need a full image except for the install, unless you don't or the game doesn't do a full install and actually requires significant data on the CD/DVD, since the DRM has been sufficiently defeated.)

You need to focus on what you're actually trying to do, not other crap, which requires that you're clear about what you're trying to achieve. Actually on the earlier point, besides mini images, many copy protection systems that old have generic no CD/DVD patches that work on most games. This is something which would be relevant to you, although I make no comment on the safety of such methods (but a lot of these generic patching software is very old); and obviously can't offer links or further comment due to DMCA and contributionary infrigement reasons.

Until and unless you actually fix your computer, it's a bit pointless worrying so much about it. A computer which can't even do a simple internet search, isn't going to be playing games. And a person who can't read that stuff and work out what to do, and the risks etc, probably should just be buying the stuff again from GOG or whatever anyway.

Nil Einne (talk) 11:09, 9 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

I am definitely not buying the games again -- even though the cost would be pretty low, I've decided not to go along with Microsoft's extortion racket (which is precisely what this is -- deliberately implementing features which make software unusable that would otherwise have probably worked just fine, in order to force people to either buy it a second time or go without), but to fight it by any means necessary. And the question regarding Windows 10 is not relevant to my current ailing computer (this one runs Windows 8.1) -- this is a question of whether I should buy a new computer with Windows 10 and use these or other workarounds to make this older software work, or whether I should just screw it and go with replacing the hard drive on my current computer (and then either reinstalling Windows 8.1, or even downgrading back to Windows 7). As for performance, this doesn't actually have to do with the old stuff -- the thing is, since I plan to run in Windows 7 mode all the time rather than switch back and forth, whether this will give me enough performance to play FSX (which is very performance-intensive, and which runs just fine on Windows 10, but which I will run in the Windows 7 mode anyway). Also, to be clear, the Google search function itself is working OK (for now) -- it's just that when I try to load webpages with lots of hyperlinks and banner ads and pictures and stuff, my computer hangs and I have to reboot -- which is a problem with many of the pages dealing with bypassing Windows 10 DRM features (including, without exception, all of the external links provided to me in this section). 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:BD53:FA5A:E33A:176C (talk) 11:53, 9 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Speaking of not going along with the extortion racket, I think I'll go one step farther and boycott Windows 10 entirely -- in other words, in the spirit of not giving in, I think I'll go with a hard drive replacement and keeping my current OS (or downgrading back to Windows 7), and then doing it again whenever the hard drive wears out in the future from now on. In other words, I am keeping my computer and OS until I die or until the thing becomes completely unusable and beyond repair! 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:BD53:FA5A:E33A:176C (talk) 12:05, 9 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

You might consider getting a Dell Optiplex 780 (Dual-Core 3.06GHz, 4GB Memory, 160GB HDD, DVDRW, Windows 7 Professional) for $138.00.[1] --Guy Macon (talk) 14:13, 10 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Thanks for the tip! 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:4E4:CBE:E570:7213 (talk) 00:36, 12 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

I've run into some weird regex problems in JavaScript[edit]

And I could sure use your advice. See Wikipedia talk:WikiProject JavaScript#The whole regex. The Transhumanist 12:28, 6 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Like how to check if a list item has more asterisks (in the edit page) than the list item directly above it. So you can tell whether it is a child node or not. $1\* doesn't work for some reason. See a more detailed description of the problem, and please post your reply, at Wikipedia talk:WikiProject JavaScript#What the script is supposed to do. Thank you. The Transhumanist 01:43, 7 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

I'd love to help but as soon as you said "regex" I knew you were hopelessly doomed. (Actually as an honest tip, pretend this is an XY-issue and ask about the question you're trying to solve using regex. I know from experience that a clever implementation of simple wildcard matches can be as or more powerful than a regex comparison). My only successful regex experiences come from finding verified answers on stack overflow to the exact question I would have asked if I posted there. And one time when the very first expression I tried worked perfectly, but that blew my mind so hard I'm still having trouble believing it, despite using the software it went into daily. ᛗᛁᛟᛚᚾᛁᚱPants Tell me all about it. 12:45, 8 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Battery Software[edit]

Is there any opensource software for phones (.apk) i.e. similar to “Battery info viewer” software? I require all the details displayed, if you know what I mean. 103.67.156.211 (talk) 17:51, 6 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]

I personally don't. Considering there are probably 50 million different battery monitoring apps, I wouldn't be surprised if no one on the RD knows what you mean. Especially since I can't see any evidence suggesting a "battery info viewer" for Android even exists. From a search engine, this page seems to be one of the only relevant links for software actually called "Battery info viewer" on Android. There is a "battery info" on Android [2] and a BatteryInfoView for Windows [3] and a BatteryEx for BlackBerry OS 4.6 which calls it self the "Ultimate Battery Info Viewer"; and as I mentioned probably 50 million battery monitoring apps for Android or 100 million when you consider other OSes (except iOS). As I said, maybe you'll get lucky and someone will know what software you're referring to and so what details you want. More likely it'll be far more productive if you actually tell people what details you want from your battery monitoring software. So far, we only know you want it to be open source but compiled into an APK already for you (which to be fair does cut it down a lot since there are a lot of free and freemium battery monitoring Android apps but far fewer open source ones), but that's all. Nil Einne (talk) 06:20, 7 May 2017 (UTC)[reply]